Lmfao. Has to be a shit post. Nobody with a landlord would ask this.

It not like this fly over system costs very much. Compared to the huge building and technology they install. I am fully against Church and religion in general, but flying Santa isn't too spectacular. The private jets, buildings the size of Amazon warehouses that actually cost....

This is more of an electrical problem rather than a plumbing issue. But rust inside the junction box is a sign of water getting into it. You need to find the source of the water that's getting in and stop that too. It looks like there is only a bad connection inside the wire nut. Most likely due to being wet. You can try changing the wire nuts if you feel comfortable with electricity.

1. Switch the breaker to "off" and lock it out & tag it so nobody turns it on accidently.

2. Verify power is off to both wires with a meter or voltage indicator.

3. Cut back the wires until you have a good section of wire to strip and install new wire nuts. (Remove one wire nut at a time so you don't mix wires.)

If you are not comfortable with electricity please do not attempt this repair and contact someone who is.

Any recommendations other than .world?

Movie was so slow and painfully boring I stopped 50 mins in. Literally nothing of any real substance happens. What is the deal with all these movies not doing anything in the first 1/2 to 3/4 of the movie? Am I just a bitchy millennial or is the the new trend for movies today?

I'm interested in this too. Software for manufacturer specific vehicles like Ford Power strike or Toyota/Lexus as well as industrial off highway engines and equipment. Kubota, Doosan, Yanmar, John Deere etc.

Many use similar communication protocols but the software for special functions are manufacture specific.

Would love to cut out the dealers and be able to do forced manual Regen and injector tests etc

Amen brotha. My dad was a 30 Busch a day drinker. I'm a 750ml of vodka a day or 2. Bring on the slow death.

Former RIF user for over a decade here. Now using connect and is not too bad of a transition.

If all 4 pads on that axle look that way your fine.

Avoid the dealership! They are horrible places that only retain the mechanics that can't cut it in a real shop.

I bought a brand new work van for my business. At 30k mi while in for warranty work Nissan wanted to do 4 brakes, 4 rotors, 4 tires, and a 4 wheel alignment on a NV3500 work van with a solid rear axle.... Said there was severe wear blah blah blah. Ended up going to over 100k miles and through two sets of tires pulling trailers with that van before actually needing brakes...

This mechanic is after your money. Run, don't walk away from them.

SOLVED

Thanks for finding out what it is. I might have to try multiple image searches from now on not just one built into my phone. Now that I know it's probably just taped on I will not worry about being more aggressive with its removal.

I found the exact plate now that I have the manufacturer info.

https://www.shopluxorworkspaces.com/swivel-monitor-metal-plates-configurable

Thanks again!! The Internet can be wonderful.

Pretty sure this is dudes YouTube. https://youtube.com/@god-has-entered-into-my-body?si=Pxy9gAPnATCxzYVj

Rule of thumb is what ever you do to one side of a vehicles axle you do the same to the other. You really need to get the other tire changed so there are 2 new ones of the same tread wear on the same axle.

You wouldn't change only one brake rotor or do the LF brakes and not the RF brakes. You do them as a set.

Not only will your transmission and differentials suffer excess wear due to unever wheel speeds your braking and ABS will suffer too.

If you had a 1970s vehicle sure you can get away with this and probably won't have any issues. But with a newer vehicle your only asking for more expensive issues.

Unless your using a 1800RPM industrial generator you will be lucky to see 2000 hours of use. Any generator you can get at Home Depot, Lowes, etc will not last long. They hold less than 2qts of oil and do not have oil filters. They are in no way made to be used in a prime power situation.

This seems like the best option. That or stop and go traffic is causing the coolant to over flow and leak out. Possible cooling fan issues if the problem is only in stop and go traffic whereas on the highway at constant speed it's fine.

Soooo I have every single symptom. Haha. Gotta grind harder than ever these days....

Depending on how often you run it you should look into doing a setup similar to what I have listed below.

One, get a gasoline Honda generator. 7000 kw ideal 3000 minimum. Depending on how many loads you'd like to run at once will decide on your size generator. Don't go too big or fuel consumption will be excessive. Too low and you will not have enough to do what you need to or will wear it out prematurely. Make sure to get roughly 25 to 50 gallons worth of gas cans too otherwise you'll be stopping for fuel multiple times a week.

Add in an 2000-3000 watt pure sine wave inverter/charger and a small 700-1000ah battery bank so that you can run your lights, router, small fridge, fans, furnace etc when the generator is not running. Idea is to add in some solar panels so that your small loads won't require you to run the generator every day all day long. Run it when you need to cook, or power large loads and let the inverter system power the small loads when the generator is not needed.

Stock up on good quality oil for the generator and change the oil every 50 to 75 hours depending on how hard you run it. Oil changes are critical to longevity of an engine and the MFG suggested oil change interval does not have the consumers best interest in mind. Change oil early or change the engine early.

Starting to look a lot like Reddit in here...

Definitely love the look of a stock 95-96 Impala SS. I miss the clone I had for over a decade. Most reliable car I ever had. Will never forget how well it would cruise at 100-120 MPH for hours on end feeling like your on a cloud. They really should have put a 454 in the SS

Literally. Rams are horrible

I really want to go this route. Had Spotify, tempted to get Tidal but I don't want to deal with content coming and going anymore. I have about 300 gigs of random MP3s, and Flac files. I want to obtain more and move over fully to flac. Any recommendations on making the transition back to locally stored music.