2019 VW petrol Golf R w/39K miles

CEL = Check Engine Light

tl;dr Started with a car with no CEL. After oil change, CEL. Another shop discovers it is due to an electrical connection to a part of my turbo assembly not being securely plugged in. Do I tell the garage owners?

Prior to drop off no CEL, ~3 hours later, after they have closed, I turn on the car and immediately get a CEL.

Verified I didn't have a lake of expensive oil under my car and the oil was in fact in the engine. My road side emergency bargain basement odb2 reader wasn't showing any codes and trying to clear/reset did nothing.

Garage responded the next morning and explains they forgot to clear something in the VW computer and its just a 2 second fix. Unfortunately I am gone for the next month. The car is parked the entire time and no one drives it.

Month and change later, I finally get home, get the car to the garage, and they say "Oh actually it's P033, your waste gate actuator." As someone who has owned more than one VW, I am unfortunately familiar with that code. Except this car only has 39K miles and those are NOT redlining on the track miles.

So I take my car to another garage and repeat verbatim the above. I told them to treat this like a crime scene and take their time. Five minutes into the diagnostics check they discovered the electrical connector to the DV (diverter valve, basically the uncool ninja alternative to a blow off valve) wasn't properly/completely plugged in. After reseating that connector the CEL didn't come back. I never felt any turbo lag nor heard or felt anything to suggest the DV wasn't working, I am guessing the connector was just loose enough to freak out the ECM.

This is the problem. I have used that first garage for over 10 years and got on well with the owners. Unfortunately a new guy to the company is the only person who touched the car from oil change onward. I've gone over my maintenance records and I just don't see why anyone was messing with the DV or anything over there on my engine bay in over two years. Also I have a hard time imagining the connector magically jiggling loose in the hour or so after the new guy parked it outside for pickup.

I don't have the energy to scooby doo this shit and piss the ECM off so it throws the same code and then take it to them to see what they would do. So I will never know.

Do I tell the garage owners? I don't see how there is anyway to make this right that I am comfortable trusting them with my car.

What would you do?

Yes, I'm aware that companies sell HEPA cabin air filters for vehicles. But, is it safe to install a HEPA cabin air filter on a vehicle who's HVAC system wasn't designed for HEPA air filters?

https://www.engineersedge.com/filtration/hepa_filter_pressure_drop_considerations.htm

By design, HEPA air filters will create resistance to flow, and a high differential pressure drop will exist across the filter. Most HEPA air filter manufacturers literature suggests replacement of HEPA air filters when the resistance due to dust loading has reached 2 in.wg.

So if your car's HVAC is designed for high airflow and you slap a HEPA filter on it, are you adding more stress and wear on the system? Seems like it's the exact same problem of installing an overly restrictive filter on your home's HVAC return vent.

Title sums it up. The 4-wheeler at the non-profit I'm affiliated with hadn't had an oil change in at least 2 years, they use it frequently. We'd really like an affordable option that I can do to fix.

Sound is new after changing the oil (with official Polaris kit specifically for the vehicle). Instructions from Polaris were followed exactly.

I've uploaded a video that hopefully makes the sound audible. It seems to me to be coming more from the cylinder area than anywhere else. I have another video here showing that the sound increases with engine speed, and it's obnoxiously loud.

Please let me know if there are any additional details I can provide.

Everyone involved is fully aware that at least 2 years is too damn long, so if we can skip any admonishments, that would be appreciated.

This post is an update from this one: link

Hi,

I have a right blinker problem on my car, specifically the right side repeater and rear right indicators.

They used to work on and off sporadically but now they don't work anymore.

When they break, they both break at the same time.

Disclaimer, I am a beginner who watches youtube videos and search stuff online. So far I have changed a radio and a diesel return line on another car.

Pictures (sorry for the resolution)

Here's a schematic I found online for my car model:

Here's another:

Both found here: https://www.c3manuel.com/indicateurs_de_direction_signal_danger-106.html

And here's a simplified one made by myself:

Findings

• Lamp module 2635 (rear right): OK

• Connector and pins 2635: OK

• Lamp module 2345 (right side repeater): OK

• Wiring [BSI - PH1 - #13] -> [2635]: OK (I even replaced it, ruining a perfectly good original part >.<)

• Wiring [BSI - EP - #19] -> [2345]: Untested, very hard to reach

• Ground MC70: OK (because the other lights (stop and fog) are working fine)

• Ground MC20: OK (because the front right blinker goes there and this one's working)

• Front right blinker: OK

• Left blinkers: OK

• Blinker fluid: OK ^^

• The BSI isn't sending a pulsing 12V to PH1#13 and EP#19.

• The ticking is faster on the right side.

What can I check/do next? I am kinda lost.

As I said before, I am a beginner so every piece of advice is welcome.

Solved

BSI was replaced and it works now

I noticed on the 2001 expedition I bought that it looks like they put an O2 sensor with the long cord before the cat. All the ones online say the long cord is the back one.

There is conflicting info online. Does it matter, are all o2 sensors the same? Before cat, after cat doesn't matter?

UPDATE:https://lemmy.world/post/50623501

Trying to figure out where I am losing voltage for rear right blinker on a C3 II.

Connectors on the light module are OK, I tried on the left side, compared with a multimeter and I should get a pulsing Voltage (12V if I recall) but the gray one stays at 0 on the right side.

So I followed the wire all the way to under the glove box where I found what looks like a burned resistor.

Edit: it's a plastic shielding:

I'm pretty new to this so if I'm looking at the wrong things please feel free to tell.

Sounds like gears rubbing or something. Maybe a chain or belt? Sounds like it’s coming from the front of the engine and it goes up and down in pitch with throttle.

For context, I recently got some water in the intake, but not enough to hydrolock. Changed MAF. Idles fine.

Thanks!

EDIT: I think the sound is coming from one of the belt pulleys. Upper left one?

Edit edit: I’m pretty sure it’s the alternator now. Will follow up.

My car does not always start, and the code says this was the issue. The connection to the battery is pristine and silver AF. So I wanted to take this thing off and look at the connections to see if it needed to be replaced or if there is another issue.

But I can't look for corrosion or replace it if I cannot get it off.

The things seem fused together. And I do not know what to do to safely get them separated.

I bought a used Forester, from a mechanic shop with a verbal warranty for 2 years. Covers engine and transmission. Transmission has to be replaced, and I'm being told it's not covered.

He initially thought it was something attached (not sure what) and that leaks weren't covered. But now that he's dropped the transmission, he's saying it's leaking out of I think a crack in the transmission case. And since the internal parts didn't break warranty doesn't apply.

Am I being fucked over? I don't see how the entire transmission replacement isn't covered under a transmission warranty. USA

Bought this car second hand, they apparently put iridium spark plugs in, but i want to know if I should be concerned with the buildup and rusty appearance it's developed. For all I know this spark plug could be from 10 years ago.

Do I need to replace the plugs, and is that actually rust? Does this mean I have an issue with my head gasket?

Edit: Thanks guys! I'll be ordering some new plugs soon.

This broke on the drive home today (2000 Sprinter 208) and dumped all the water out of the system.

I bypassed it with an old sparkplug socket I had. This now means the heater core is always getting water circulating through it.

Does this matter? I live in a hot country so I never have the cabin heater on so it's not like I'm missing out on owt...

Hey all, my wife's 2009 Corolla has been taking a few turns to start. There's misfires in every cylinder, and the engine shudders.

It was running fine when we got it around a year ago, and the problem slowly came about. I've replaced every ignition coil and spark plug, and they're all firing fine. Then I thought it was oil getting into the spark plug wells, so I attached a straw to a shop vac and stuck it in each one (not much came out), then replaced the valve cover gasket.

It seems to be a fuel issue, but my fuel pump seems fine. I was thinking maybe it's sensors, but I'm really lost and I have got to keep this vehicle running! Any advice would be welcome.

I just got my first car and I was thinking I should probably get a dash cam since it has to stay in the driveway, but I feel out of my depth. I don't have a lot of money so I'm hoping for one that is at most around AU$100. I also think covering both front and rear would be best, but obviously will take advice on that regard. Are there any specific ones you would recommend? I feel completely out of my depth. Also, I'm located in Australia if that makes a difference.

2019 VW Atlas SEL

Alignment has been off since I bought the car used. Dealership had to replace the steering rack for something unrelated and I told them to make sure the alignment is right. It was not. Maybe in their machine it is, but the wheel was not centered when driving straight. I looked at the live data in OBDEleven and there was an offset for mechanical center and straight line (see screenshots).

I adjusted the tie rods of each wheel equally so it would drive straight when steering wheel centered and ran the steering angle sensor basic setting in OBDEleven. I now notice that the dynamic lane assist (the alternate setting to stay in middle of lane) always veers to the right first and then centers. Also, the sensor offset is still there.

Is there something else I need to do to get rid of the offset? Something with ABS control unit?

EDIT: some additional live data

Anybody know anything about 90's vacuum controlled EGR systems? I've got one of those goofy little Japanese import trucks, and finding info about how it's supposed to work is a nightmare.

There's a pretty good vacuum leak out of the top of the vacuum amplifier/signal doodad. Kinda UFO shaped deal between the vacuum advance, intake manifold and the canister.

Any ideas on diagnosis, or ways I can figure out what's doing what would be helpful.

Hiya It happened recently that when I turn on the ignition all the electronic systems warning lights goes off. LKAS, ABS, ACC, VS, EP etc but the car runs all right apart from the obvious - the electronic support systems not working. The errors stay on during the driving.

I surmised that its not each individual system failed on its own, it must some sort bad connection maybe?

I already checked the battery (ignition off, switching on and idling) and is perfectly healthy.

I tried unplugging the battery for about 30min - didn't do a thing.

I'm getting an OBD scanner tomorrow so i will post here what it comes back with.

In the meantime - any ideas?

Thank you!

Hello mechanics!

I've got some coils and spark plugs that need replacing (Along with likely needing to send my ECM in for a repair). I've verified that they're the likely culprit of many of my issues with my local mechanic, but wanted to verify with more internet experts on what to buy.

From what I understand, Motorcraft is the recommended OEM, and I've no problem spending the money if that is the right direction, but I wanted to see if any of these "Premium" alternatives on RockAuto would be a good or better choice, such as the Hitachi with "Magnetic Shield for EMI Protection" (A common cause for ECM damage in this make/model apparently).

Thanks in advance!

Hi everyone,

I have a 2012 Nissan versa which uses a CVT. I am close to hitting 100k miles and just had my transmission serviced. I'm not having any problems with the transmission, but just wanted to do routine maintenance on my car. When I was at the shop, the guy kept telling me how unreliable CVTs are and I'm lucky I got 100k miles out of it. He also made it sound like it could totally fail at any point in the near future. So I'm just curious how long do CVTs last? He said they typically fail around 70k miles. If they truly don't last much longer than 100k miles then maybe I should look into getting a new car while mine is still working. I tried looking it up online but I don't trust the AI content.

Thanks!

This thing has been driving us nuts! We're slowly but systematically replacing basically every relevant part suggested by the various codes it's thrown over the past few years, but it still acts up, totally randomly.

So far, we've replaced all the plugs, plug wires, coil packs, fuel pump, and crankshaft position sensor. I also briefly replaced the throttle position sensor, to which I didn't notice any difference either, but my roommate (the owner) thought that seemed to somehow make it worse so he had me put the old one back in. We do still have the new one though, and after what it did yesterday, I might put the new one back in soon. More on what it did yesterday a little later.

Still on the menu of other parts to check/replace are the mass airflow sensor, oxygen sensor, EGR valve, and camshaft position sensor (this model does have that sensor right?)

Anyways, what it did yesterday threw us both for a loop. While parked at the gas station and idling, he pressed the accelerator pedal, and literally nothing happened, engine RPM didn't change a single bit, even when he put the pedal to the floor it simply stayed at idle.

I wondered what the hell the computer was even thinking at that moment, like did the ECM just totally glitch out then or what? So I had him shut it down, wait about 20 seconds or so, and crank it back up. And sure enough it started responding to the accelerator again, as it has been for the past few years anyways.

I'm sure that it's at least partly related to the emissions control system, as the exhaust definitely smells like it's not burning all the gas (note that there's thankfully no visible emissions, just a notable odor), but why the hell would there be a random one-off where the vehicle wouldn't even respond to the accelerator at all until shutting it down and restarting it?

We'd go ahead and jump all in and replace all the other parts I mentioned, but ya know .. $$$ .. so we're tackling things as he can afford them and as we narrow down and correct obvious issues such as a few cracked vacuum lines that I've already replaced now.

Anyways, if you've read this far, thanks for your attention to this issue. If anyone has any suggestions or advice to help us find the issue and save our sanity, we're all ears! And thanks in advance.

Also, a bonus link for fellow mechanics: https://charm.li/

Operation CHARM - The Collection of High-quality Auto Repair Manuals spans many makes and models from 1982 through 2013