I have been seeing periodic drops in internet access from LAN connected devices lately (last 2 months), and I haven't been able to figure about exactly what is going on. There doesn't seem to be a pattern, and it resolves itself after a few hours.

• I can access the internet from my router
• All devices on LAN can reach each other, both wired and WiFi
• All devices on LAN can reach router, both wired and WiFi
• I haven't changed anything in router settings
• I haven't added new devices to my local network
• I can't find any IP conflicts
• It's a simple flat network with two APs, a single switch, no VLAN separation

Jeg har længe følt at der ikke rigtig var nogen i det politiske landskab som jeg havde tilstrækkeligt overlap i værdier med til at ville stemme på dem. Og på parti-niveau er det da generelt også stadig ret sløjt.

Men jeg faldt ret tilfældigt over græsrodsbevægelsen "jordskred" forleden, og her har jeg fundet noget der rammer rimelig godt for mig med fokus på både klima og digitale rettigheder.

Jeg har ikke som sådan noget med dem at gøre, men ville sprede ordet så andre der ligesom mig måske har det svært med det mere synlige politiske Danmark, kan finde nogen de kan stå inde for at stemme på.

I have rimworld that I bought on GOG, I wanted to use it on my steamdeck so I added the start.sh as a non-steam game. It went fine and I can open it...but the controller inputs don't work at all, only touchscreen input works. Do I need to add launch arguments or something to get it working properly? It works just fine when launched from heroic launcher outside of steam, I kind of just wanted it easily accessible with the rest of my library.

I'm reorganising my hobby space and I could really use some inspiration for cool and effective ways to do this. I have a rectangular room of about 15sqrm (6m x 2.5m) for this, I also have a treadmill in there so I don't have tons of space.

This particular filament (Sunlu matte HS PETG) is one of the absolute worst I've ever used WRT being hygroscopic. It arrived so wet that I had literal steam from the extruder the first time I wanted to use it. It took almost 48h in my drier to dry it completely so I could use it. Its been sitting in an airtight box with dessicant for 5 weeks and I needed to dry it for >16h for it to be usable again. The wet part in this print was in the bowden tube between dryer and printer, I restarted the print after took this image.

Sure it prints well at 300mm/s, but it is by no means matte at the temperatures that allow printing it at high speeds, it is actually very glossy. A huge bummer.

smooth first layer...so nice

I just got my Heltec V4 today, but after a few hours of trying I simply cannot flash meshtactic on it. I've only tried v2.7.x versions.

I consistently get "NetworkError: Failed to execute 'open' on 'SerialPort': Failed to open serial port"

I've tried all combinations mentioned in this thread but nothing seems to work.

I am on Linux mint, I've tried both chromium and chrome, I've tried different usb-cables (both A-C and C-C, all with verified data connections)

I can see the device with lsusb as "Espressif USB JTAG/serial debug unit"

Anyone know where I need to look for a solution? This has been a seriously shitty start to my meshtastic adventure.

I recently decided to force myself to actually learn FreeCad. I've tried on and off for the past two years but just couldn't get along with the UI and workflow...well, now I'm giving it an honest shot, and after a few weeks of misery, it is getting better.

But my laptop is not particularly powerful, and I frequently have performance issues when working with imported step-files. Lo and behold, you can run FreeCad in docker, so I can use my server which is significantly more powerful and just access via browser.

The catch is, it seems to run even worse than on my laptop. I can also see that it actually doesn't use much of the available power of the server. Does anyone have experience with setting up a docker compose for FreeCad? I've looked at the docs and my GPU should be passed through and I've also allocated 32GB ram to the container. But it doesn't actually use it it seems.

I had a lot of ASA to spare from a voron 2.4 project. I decided to use some of it printing the prusa rocket engine just for the fun of it, maxing out my printers volume with a height of 310mm. I printed it without any supports, and it does show some obvious issues in areas with large overhangs, but generally the printing quality is pretty good. It took 16h13m to print the entire thing and used a little under 400g of filament, 0.2mm layer height, 10% lightning infill, 2 walls.

For et par uger siden gik jeg i gang med at lave mit eget figur-brætspil. Indtil videre har det fået titlen "Four Against the Fall". Det er et hyggeligt lille sideprojekt som jeg nørkler lidt med om aftenen når der lige er tid. Det er rimeligt meget i et alpha-stadie nu, men det er sådan nogenlunde klart til at spille tror jeg.

Præmissen er en zombie-apokalypse sat i en high-fantasy verden, hvor man som spillere kæmper fire helte (knight, ranger, battle-priest og sorcerer) sammen mod overvældende horder af zombier. Game mechanics er lidt en blanding af initiativ-turbaserede runder med move/actions, terningekast med hit/save mekanikker til at give noget tilfældighed under kamp og så korttræk til at styre hvor mange, og hvilke typer, zombier der spawner i hver runde. Zombie AI er meget simpel, de angriber bare hvad end der er nærmest når det er deres tur.

Lige nu har jeg forsøgt at lave en træningsmission som introducerer spillet mekanikker.

Artwork er lavet med AI da jeg absolut ingen kunstneriske evner ejer.

Regler, print-selv tokens og træningsmission. kan hentes her, hvis det har interesse. Jeg er meget åben for feedback.

chat control er vedtaget - DANMARK DANMARK DANMARK!!

Det er simpelthen så tåkrummende pinligt og skamfuldt at det er Danmark der er endt med at være frontløber på det er.

Beklager den engelske artikel, fandt ikke lige noget på dansk.

I bought a new Qidi X-Max 3 on their BF sale for 500EUR, which seemed like a great deal and I've been wanting an enclosed klipper core-xy printer for some time for more demanding prints in engineering filaments, so I pulled the trigger.

I've now had the printer for two days, and it's somewhat of a disappointment unfortunately.

The printing speed and quality of the prints are good, nothing to complain about here.

My issue is with their bed meshing and first layer. The bed is crooked as hell with a massive 0.45mm deviance from lowest to highest point, but it should not be a big issue with bed meshing because it should compensate. But it just seems like it's not compensating at all, the parts of prints that are closest to flat plane have great first layer, all other places are either way too squished or not squished at all. This means I can only get a proper first layer on about 1/3 of the bed, either front, middle or back part.

This is in stark contrast to my semi-custom anycubic bedslinger with klipper, which lays down near perfect first layer every time, without adjust Z-offset across the entire plate. And I was honestly expecting the same from the Qidi.

I have run their calibration routine multiple times. I'm fairly well versed in the 3D hobby. Is there some setting in the Qidi that I'm missing? It's running their own dirty klipper version, who knows what they've changed/missed from newest mainline. I am already considering returning as I was expecting more of a turn-key printer that my experience so far.

Jeg har solgt min bil og skal til at tage det offentlige igen, og til min store overraskelse får jeg nu at vide af den kære dame i DSBs kundeservice, at det simpelthen kun er muligt at få pendlerkort med en smartphone. Jeg kan selvfølgelig bruge mit rejsekort til overpris, men kun lidt endnu for det forsvinder fandme OGSÅ snart...

Hvad pokker gør jeg så nu? Det bliver umuligt at tage det offentlige for mig fra næste år tilsyneladende...

Jeg har brugt briller hele mit liv, er temmelig nærsynet med -7.0 på begge øjne og med noget bygningsfejl (ikke stabilt, så det skal have nye jævnligt). Det gør at glas alene til mine briller koster fra 7.000kr (enkelt styrke) fordi man ikke bare kan tage billigste hinkesten og smide i. Det er fucking mange penge og de er en absolut nødvendighed for at jeg kan fungere i verden da jeg kun kan se ca. 10cm uden briller.

Optikere kører jo selvfølgelig ofte med forskellige tilbud, men det er næsten altid en form for "2 for 1" (og jeg skal jo ikke bruge to par briller) eller rabat på stel, men stellet er næsten en ligegyldig lille del af prisen på mine briller (500-700kr)

Men der er absolut ingen statslig støtte til det, jeg skal enten låne pengene eller være funktionelt blind. Er man medlem af sygeforsikring Danmark kan man få den svimlende sum af 420kr i tilskud i alt, det rækker jo som en snebold i helvede.

Det er pisse frustrerende og absurd at man bliver efterladt af et såkaldt "velfærdssamfund".

I've begun printing more minis for TTRPG, and since i only have a cheap bedslinger that's what I'm using.

Normally I've just stuck with minis designed specifically for supportless FDM printing, but I wanted to try my hand at something else and went with this Minotaur

There's still a bit of post-processing before priming and painting, but I'm actually pretty happy with the quality, considering it was done on a $200 entry-level printer.

Printed in eSun PLA+ with a 0.2mm nozzle and 0.08mm layer height, it took just short of 9h to print it.

I print figurines for D&D adventures with my kids, both monsters and player characters, I've also done a few scenery items and player trinkets. So far I've just used whatever PLA I had around, but was thinking that maybe there were some brands (or other filament) that are better for this type of thing? Preferably also easily paintable since they've started to want more than just plain solid colour.

I'm using a 0.2mm nozzle for these, and detail is actually pretty decent.

I am using the teslemetry integration to dynamically adjust my charging amps to match the surplus production from my solar panels. I have an automation that checks surplus production every 2min and adjust amps only if needed.

But teslemetry seems to trigger the wake up command every single time I want to send a command to my car, regardless of the cars sleep state. This means that teslemetry is burning through my command credits in an absurdly short amount of time as every wake command costs a ridiculously 20 credits.

How can I stop teslemetry from triggering these expensive and utterly unnecessary wake up commands?

Jeg skal gerne bruge nogle store lufttætte opbevaringskasser/bokse, gerne omkring 100L (50L kan måske også gå), men det er tilsyneladende totalt umuligt at skaffe i danmark? Kasse-formatet er vigtigt, kan ikke bruge tønder eller lignende til noget.

De skal bruges til at opbevare 3D printer filament, har forsøgt med vakuum-poser men de går alt for hurtigt i stykker og holder ikke forseglingen ved brug. Det er irriterende at skulle vente 8-10+ timer på at tørre filament, så vil gerne kunne opbevare det rimelig tørt så tørre tiden måske kunne bringes ned til et par timer inden brug.

Only been in there for a week, he's still shy but slowly becoming more brave. He explores mostly during dusk and dawn, during the day he doesn't move from this hollow cork branch but has gone from hiding at the back to peeking out the front mostly.

Picked up this little guy the other day, a male hypo bloodred het charcoal corn snake.

The little bugger has been hiding since he moved in a few days ago.

Den ene bumper-knap i venstre board (den i toppen på billedet) er desværre knækket og den her ødelagt solder-padden i printet så kan ikke skifte selve knappen.

Har nogen haft held med at finde dele til steam deck? For ellers har jeg bare et stort stykke E-skrald fordi de ikke vil sælge reservedele og det pisser mig af...

EDIT: Valve har svaret på min henvendelse, de vil gerne reparere den for €140, men de vil ikke bare sende printet så jeg kan gøre det selv desværre 😒