This is just an idea at the moment and would like to hear your thoughts on this.

Instead of a toolchanger that goes to a designated spot, releases a hotend and picks up another one, would it be feasible to have two independently moving X rails? I mean two sliders on the Y axis that each have their own independent toolhead mounted on it.

To 3D print using two materials you could have rail 1 move out of the way so that rail 2 can move to the object and resume printing. I suppose this could be done with a pause command followed by executing gcode with different stepper motors.

This obviously only makes sense on a 3D printer that is large enough. I would say rails of at least 500mm in X and Y direction and a bed that supports that.

Does this make any sense over a dedicated toolchanger? I suppose the complexity is much lower and it's less likely to fail.

I also believe there is a benefit for printing multiple objects simultaneously but at some point it might as well be two separate printers.

Title. I printed a case for a friend, and I ended up wanting to have a similar case, but it didn't exist for my phone, so I ended up recreating something similar in OpenSCAD, then decided I'd probably be better off making it customizable so that it could fit, theoretically, any (current) candy-bar style phone.

TL;DR: The Good Stuff

• Get it at: Printables
• Source Code at: Codeberg
• License: CC A-NC-SA 4

::: spoiler Here are some screenshots!

:::

It took me about 4-5 nights to get it mostly as decent as I could make it, I still don't consider myself an OpenSCAD expert by no means, but when I tried it on my phone, I was pretty satisfied!

Unfortunately, for my phone, I had to make a couple of test prints, and the print shown on video, was putting a tad too much pressure on the corners of the screen, so I ended up having to make a new print. (7 total tests during development)

::: spoiler Here's how the case looks with the screws on

:::

Either way, I am more than open to feedback, and you are free to contribute if you'd like!

In my previous post I explained how I acquired an Ender 3 v1, v2, and v3 over the course of a week after not owning any 3d printers, well, it's been a couple more weeks and I got a couple more printers. I spent several days trying to troubleshoot the Nebula pad that came on my v3, finally got it unbricked only to have it stick in a sort of boot loop so I gave up, I was going to just buy a screen for $40 but I got a whole nother machine for $70 which is good because I ended up replacing the screen and main board and now I have the rest for parts (the first one has several mods so fixing it rather than using it for parts made sense to me).

I fixed the v2 that I got out of the dump by adjusting the bed and replacing the stepper on the x axis and then gave that one and the v1 to my oldest daughter.

Deciding that I need to unlock the wonders of multi color printing I bought a FlashForge AD5X for $160 that had a bunch of filament caught in the bowden tubes and extruder. After fixing that I gave it a wash and tried printing a benchy but I can't get it to stick. I'm going to play with some settings tonight and see if I can get this one printing as consistently as the Ender 3 v3. I saw glue mentioned a couple of times, would a glue stick do or does it need to be something special?

Also, what type of grease do you all recommend for your machines?

I'm printing some change gears to check the fitment of the gear train on a banjo. I have been fighting with this particular brand of PETG trying to get a clean and accurate print since last week.

Notice on the 2 20T gears the poor bores and under extruded 5 layer top surface. They were printed with a hardened .40mm nozzle on a Bambu A1 Mini. They do NOT fit the spindles on the banjo at all.

Now look at the larger 80T gear. Clean teeth and bore with proper flow rate on the top surface. (Yes the infill is showing a bit due to the mere 3 top and bottom layers I printed it with to save on filament). This gear fits as it should right off the plate.

Same exact filament, same printer, same exact slicer setting. Just a hardened .60mm nozzle swapped for the hardened .40mm nozzle. And dried to 14%Rh for days and I printed directly for the dryer.

Soooo much time and filament wasted calibrating and recalibrating for that .40mm nozzle and it still failed. All I needed was the .60mm nozzle. But, still a new and interesting phenomenon to learn from for me.

I’ve been working on a new ereader case platform and wanted to find a way to print bigger than the max volume, and have it extremely durable is was the result.

Need to do some more work with the cover but overall I am very happy with how this turned out.

EDIT: Forgot to mention, the clear material is TPU, and the Purple material is PETG. The holes are for Threaded inserts.

Is there any existing technology that takes a variety of filaments of different colors (say a CMYK blend), and then blends them in different ratios to achieve whatever color you want?

I had this thought the either day, and I figure it's either stupid, already exists, or genius.

Hello netizens of Lemmy, while printing this single wall wing segment i ran into a problem with significant bulging around the middle. This causes the segments to not fit onto the frame or each other. If anyone has ideas on how to fix this, please share. At this point i'm pretty desperate and willing to try just about anything.

Update

In the end it was a combination of slowing down the print, lowering nozzle temperature, and adding perpendicular supports to the flat parts.

Solution (for PLA): Nozzle temp 190C, bed temp 55C, print speed 30mm/s, keep the fans spinning, double walls so that the supports can be printed with the body in one stroke as otherwise they won't attach.

Hey all,

For those who own a SV08, what kind of mods did you install on your printer?

Secondarily, does anyone have a multi toolhead mod? I'm not quite sure whether I should go with the INDX way or use OG toolheads.

Happy to hear your thoughts!

Lampshade printed out of clear PLA in vase mode, to replace the glass shade I stole from a cheap Aliexpress lamp to use as a cover for my 360° camera. The lamp was super-cheap but I didn't want to throw it away. With the 3D-printed shade, it found a new life as a small table lamp in my office at work.

On the little manual that came with my overture tpu, it says that you should dry it at 70 degrees. I just want to confirm that the glue will hold up at that temp. I have had issues with another brand where the spools fell apart when I dried them at around 60 degrees, so I just want to make sure.

I'm almost certainly going to buy either a Sovol M1D or a Prusa Core One + w/INDX within the next few hours, but I'm am having trouble deciding on which would be better. I'll share my thoughs, please share whatever feedback you have.

I feel like I have completely outgrown my old bedslinger, I miss being out of my depth and forced to learn, and I've saved up quite a bit of money in order to get a printer that will give me lots of new techniques and technologies to learn. I primarily want to add multi-color, multi-material, and a heated chamber for materials like ABS. I've decided that I'd like to get all these capabilities in a single printer, as I don't have a huge amount of space in my apartment for my hobbies.

I'm leaning towards the M1D, as i find the IDEX system and larger print volume, at a slightly lower price, to be very alluring. Although the fact that the M1D is still in its pre-release phase does give me some pause.

The Core One+ wins a number of points though. I have friends with Prusas and in my experience the prusa polish is incredible, and I know that Sovol may have slightly lower build quality. The slightly smaller size of the printer, while a sacrifice in print volume, would make finding space for it far easier. Finally since the Core One is already released I wouldn't have to wait for December for the printer to arrive.

Appologies if I have formatted this poorly, this whole post is just slightly edited stream of thought.

cross-posted from: https://discuss.tchncs.de/post/66988984

What I have

I have an old Acer Aspire A515-51G and I also have a desire to have a home server. In combination this creates a need for the laptop to carry more HDDs than it can from factory. Usually it can take one M.2 SSD and one 2.5" SATA drive.

What I want

I want to make the laptop able to run at least 4 HDDs in RAID 5 for storage and have one SSD as boot drive.

What I did

The buying phase

• 4 HDDs
• M.2 to SATA adapter
• 12V/5V SATA power converter
• 12V 10A power supply

The designing phase

I needed space to hold the HDDs, so I designed a 3D printed a cage to attach to the bottom of my laptop. Two 80mm fans can be attach to it. You can see it on printables. Also I remixed a tray (here is the original) so the HDDs can slide in and out of the cage.

.

The assembly phase

A cutout at the bottom of the laptop was needed to give access to the SATA ports of the adapter.

I put a 2.5" SSD into the already present place for it in the laptop.

Then the cage was attached to the laptop, the HDDs were put in their trays, the trays inside the cage and the cables attached to the adapter and HDDs.

I've seen many debates about the need to dry PLA filaments. Looks like some people never need to do anything while others dry the hell out of them before printing.

I've been recommended once to print at 10% RH… After 48h of drying, I can barely get below 37%…

So: what's the humidity level in the room your printer is?

Source (in Danish): https://www.dr.dk/nyheder/indland/poelset-op-i-beton-nu-staar-europas-stoerste-3d-printede-byggeri-klar

I have this annoying issue where solid infill on the bottom layers doesn't print properly. It also affects walls on those layers. It looks like under extrusion to me, but it doesn't make sense.

• It only affects solid infill bottom layers (I.e. layer 2 and 3 for my regular slicer settings)
• it does not happen on first layer.
• it's not a clog issue, rinsing and cold-pulling doesn't fix it. Brand new nozzle + hotend didn't fix it either
• it's not a flow capacity issue, it happens even with flow as low as 2mm3/s. I've used both Stefan's weighing method and orcaslicers built-in flow calibration and they agree it tops out around 25mm3/s and slicer is conservatively set to 20mm3/max
• it's not speed related, it happens regardless of speed, from 10mm/s to the regular 200mm/s
• internal solid infill line width is set to 105%, same as top layer.

Is there a slicer setting I messed up? Prints turn out ok, slight indent only on layer 2 and 3 because of this. But this just bugs the hell out of me because it shouldn't be happening.

Edit: it's a Qidi xmax-3 printer

I have been getting these lines where there seems to be not enough filament extruded accompanied by some clocking noises (not really grinding). Recently I got a few errors about stuck filament as well.

I did a few cold pulls but there wasn't any debris to be seen and the three ends (cht) were clearly visible.

Noises, pattern and errors persist.

Pla, core one, max layer with 0.4 nozzle.

Any help appreciated

Edit is the image not loading for everyone?

So earlier this week I found an Ender 3v2 at the dump and drug it home. It powers on fine and moves in the z and y axis but not x, I have a stepper motor from an old project that will fit I'm just waiting for a gear that uses set screws vs press fit.

A few days ago my daughter mentioned she wanted to get into 3d printing (coincidentally as I hadn't told her about the dump printer) so today I bought an Ender 3v1, working, and an Ender 3v3 SE, not working for $80. The v1 is going to my daughter and probably the v2 as well once I've replaced the bad stepper and I'll keep the v3 if I can fix it.

All that said, are there common problems with the v2 that I should look for after the stepper is replaced? I can't believe that was the only issue that made someone trash it.

The v3 has the nebula smart kit and I guess freezes while booting, I read that I can reflash the firmware to get it working again but would it be worth sourcing an original screen and taking it back to stock?

Edit: another question I have, looking at the nebula kit pictures there is the pad, a camera, flash drive and something else. I don't have the flash drive for sure and I'm uncertain if the 4th part of the kit is installed or even what it is, how important are those pieces to the kit? Thank you

do you know any cheap and or goood oness

is there any very bad ones ( i heard bambu is bad but why)

Your local government spent thousands of dollars on each one, so return the favor by protecting their investment!