So the Creality Ender 5 is/was my first and only 3D printer. Over the years, as is tradition with Creality products, you replace parts and install upgrades here and there.

In the latest iteration only the frame is original. Everything else has been replaced.

Some of the highlights (screw AI for ruining that word)

-Cartesian -> CoreXY, inspired by the MercuryOne project.

-X strut replaced with two 10mm steel rods. The print head is in between the rods so that the reachable area can be increased.

-Redesigned toolhead allowing for a Phaetus Rapido UHF and Orbiter 1.5 or 2.0 extruder, as well as a BLTouch bed sensor.

-New bed, 314x314mm instead of 235x235mm.

-The bed motion system is placed outside the frame instead of inside. The bed will be raised to just below the top of the frame. The toolhead can freely move over the frame, the fan ducts will not hit the frame but the nozzle will.

-Oversized rails on the Y axis, 24mm rails of 530mm length. I got these from discarded lab equipment at my old job. They allow the toolhead to go over the frame bounds and allow the nozzle to reach the whole inside of the frame.

I now have a 260x310 usable print area, up from 220x220 with the stock unit. There is still room to improve and I believe 314x314 is also possible.

The FreeCAD design file is available here: https://www.printables.com/model/1867046-ender-5-radical-redesign

Finally got the Box Turtle AFC mostly dialed in, yay multicolor!

Our multimedia dept lends out this card game, and I guess the thin cardboard box fell apart? So they asked for a sturdier one. Made from 100% ASTM6691-certified biodegradable PHA of course.

#3dprinting #PHA #makerspace #library #TacoCatGoatCheesePizza @[email protected]

An nozzle of my Snapmaker U1 failed with printing and the clog ended up breaking the frail temperature sensor.

The spare about are expected to arrive within about a month (stock runners out, and I didn't had spare parts of these because they have never broken on my old printer).

I moved the nozzle heater and sensor from head 2 (E1) to head 1,since the left head is like a master and you can't do without apparently. I set the min_temp of [extruder1] in the printer.cfg file super low. And now it can boot up again.

The printer runs just fine on the other nozzles now, just can not do a nozzle offset calibration and such since that requires heating the nozzles. Meaning nozzle 1 has a wrong offset (but can be used on its own), nozzle 2 is completely out, and nozzle 3 and 4 can be used for multi material printing.

It's current printing! So no time to waste. Let us engineer and print more, and enjoy the hobby

Do you have any experience doing so?

I have a project coming up where I would like to print a large object and fill it with sand and resin.

Sand, as we all know is coarse, rough and irritating and it gets everywhere. So it's good filler material.

Afterwards I want to solidify it by adding resin, hoping that it gets everywhere as well.

What other materials are usable? Perhaps concrete but it can't really dry inside a printed object right?

The infill should be Gyroid with 10% with at least 3 perimeters IMO. Would something like tree infill work as well? Or removable infill? I'm not sure how to get a slicer to do that though.

I intend to build parts for a CNC machine so I value weight and rigidity in this project.

I have an old Monoprice Select Mini Pro (v3) that has sat for years. I got it out today to see if it still works and it does. It printed fine the last time I used it but I've gotten bigger and better printers since then. However I lost the slicer profile I was using and decided to start from scratch with Orca. I just plugged in the dimensions and changed some start g code for the initial purge line as the default was going well off the bed. I also tried changing the retraction distance to 4.5 because this is a bowden tube which did not change this issue. The initial purge line and outer perimeter of the first layer stick really well but the middle infill is blobbing at one end and stringing through the middle and not sticking to the bed at all. I have been playing with the z height end stop (the level sensor is bad so I had printed an adjuster for the z end stop) to adjust the initial layer height and I'm pretty sure I went from too high to too low facing the same issue. I know it's not the filament because it's a new spool that I just printed on another printer with yesterday. I'm leaning towards it being a slicer setting of some kind having to do with the extrusion, I'm just not sure which setting it could be. Thanks for any help.

Edit: well the z axis motor just died because I lowered the z axis too far and it hit the bed and it was acting funny earlier so that's probably the issue.

The photo shows serious warping (or curling) of my print from my old PEI sheet which was printed on my MK4 with my old heatbed. All four of the corners warped (only the worst corner is shown).

This has been a persistent problem for the last couple of years. Smaller models printed closer to the center of the bed are fine. Only bigger prints which approach the edges of the bed curl up.

I recently upgraded my MK4 to the MK4S. While I was at it, I replaced the heatbed and I bought a new PEI sheet. And even though the sheet was brand new, I did wash it thoroughly with warm water and Dawn dish soap before using it.

After running through the full calibration and reslicing my model for the new high-flow nozzle using the latest stable release of PrusaSlicer, I reprinted it with high expectations.

Unfortunately, I was disappointed. One of the corners warped. It wasn't quite as severe as before, so that's a slight improvement. The corner that did warp happens to be the same one shown in the pic.

Print Settings: Prusa MK4S printer (no enclosure) 0.4 mm high-flow nozzle 0.2 mm resolution 15% infill Prusament Army Green PLA

-- Edit --

Wow, there are lots of good ideas here. Thanks everyone!

The things I'm going to try (in no paticular order).

• Covering the printer with a cardboard box or insulation sheets to see if an enclosure would help.
• Cutting a tiny relief across the sides on the first layer.
• Adding a brim.
• Slow down the first layer.
• Spraying 3DLac on the corners

Hi, I recently picked up a Zonestar Z9V5-MK3 for too much money, too far from my house but what's done is done. I bought another hot end on eBay off a MK5 or 6 but spares seem to be few and far between though it looks like I can still get parts new. I found some info on a Facebook group for these things and their GitHub looks like it has a decent amount of info. I'm really looking for opinions or experience, what are their quirks, etc. Ultimately I want to replace the belts, trade the glass bed for magnetic, and upgrade the extruders but all that needs to wait until I've actually powered this thing on. In the near term I need to replace all the missing hardware on the machine (8 screws and a rubber foot), hook up the electrics, fire it up and see what happens.

I'll start off with a recent one. I forgot to connect the hotend cooling fan when remounting the hotend. After a while the printer jammed and the whole toolhead got so hot that it started to melt. The brass inserts were coming out of their sockets and the hotend stood at an angle instead of straight down.

I also noticed that the "teflon" tube connecting the extruder to the hotend was not in fact teflon. The slowly melting ABS was blowing a bubble in that tube and it was clearly starting to melt.

It was quite a pain in the ass to fix as I did not have a second toolhead nor a second 3D printer to print a new one so I had to fix the extruder/hotend in place using 2-part glue hoping that the printer lasts long enough to print a new toolhead.

I should probably have either a thermal fuse or a smart filament sensor that notices jams as well. When your hotend cooling fan fails, or the operator forgets to connect it, the filament will jam in the heatbreak and if it goes long enough the whole hotend will be plastic-meltingly hot. A jam sensor should see it before the toolhead starts to melt.

I'm designing a partially 3D printable CNC machine and have some options regarding the motion system.

I can choose between belts and ballscrews. Currently I have 2 ballscrews. One for X which is easy but what is the best way to control the Y axis?

Either I use one ballscrew and move the workpiece back and forth or I get two of them and push/pull the X gantry back and forth. A second ballscrew significantly adds to the cost of the machine but is there any benefit to doing so?

Bed slinging seems fine for slow speed operations such as CNC milling.

Cross posted from: https://pawb.social/post/50725291

a bit of warping on the top but works very well

If you know why this happens pls help. model Ender 3.

cross-posted from: https://lemmy.zip/post/72132658

Friday Facts #447 - Factorio that you can touch | Factorio

Eneloops would only last about 3 weeks. And disposable last 2 months. This door is used a lot and since it has Zwave and a door open sensor it sends info on every open.

Bonus, since it can handle the lipo AA batteries that put out 1.8v and it gives the motor more oomph I made the battery pack give 7.2v and it never sticks anymore.

This is a garage-door so its not critical access but is used a lot.

So my 3D printer uses two 10mm rods for the X axis with LM10UU bearings inside the toolhead carriage.

The regular metal bearings are quite noisy and have nasty resonance effects at 40mm/s speeds. They also have a lot of wiggle room.

In an attempt to solve this I bought the plastic variant which has no moving parts and just slides over the rod. They are too tight however and my printer struggles with moving in the X direction.

Does anyone have experience with these? I assume the plastic ones wear out over time so the friction should go down.

I was using the appimage of Orca with the Bambu in LAN only mode running firmware 1.07. For the initial conenct (once only) it was via the Device tab in orca, add device via access code (and IP). I think this needed the Bambu proprietary network plugin. I had no cloud profiles and would send the print over WiFi to the Bambu. This also appears to be the same in the appimage of 2.4.1.

I want to use the flathub 2.4.2 as its easier to update. However, I'm having issues connecting to the Bambu.

The option to connect in the flathub version seems to be prepair tab, add the bambu preset, wifi icon, where I then have the options of:

• Host type: (defualts to octo/clipper)
• Printer agent: (defaults to Bambu lab)
• IP
• Device UI
• API/Passcode
• HTTPS CA FILE:

When trying to connect I get an error re octo print being installed on the host and I can't get my printer to connect.

Happy to follow a guide but they seem to be for the older setup or the older drama re Bambu and 3rs party support. What settings should I use or should I be trying to install the network plugin? Can I just connect via access code like in the appimage?

Example from the creator of it https://youtu.be/WGsi5SCurpM

Anyone have any experience with this?
Strongly considering adding a xTool F2 Ultra UV to the hobby, but it’s quite costly and I’m unsure if I’d use it enough to justify it.
Any other laser experience also appreciated