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deltahunters·Delta Hunters - For all things VXbylime!

A photo of a mechanical reticulator, ca 1890. This is where it all began.

here's a modern (non-functional) replica:

sadly the ivory commutator was missing from the original, and reverse-engineering one from a single photo with no look at the inside of the compensator coupling is basically impossible.

History lesson: Before the discovery of electrochemical 2:3-resonance in 1927, there was no way to drive the encabulation process automatically, and therefore no way to easily tune the asymptote. Because of that, the field was basically entirely theoretical, until the Sachri Reticulator.

Named after a Jean-Baptiste Sachri, a friend (some say lover) of the inventor, the Reticulator allows the operator to finely control the speed of a metal cylinder, in which is carved a groove that, if played in a phonograph, would produce two sine waves rising from 1Hz to 50kHz irregularly, varying in phase shift as they did so. The cylinder was instead "read" by three needles placed diagonally across the groove so that the distance between the outermost needles were 2/3rds of a wavelength out-of-phase with each other. The vibrations were then transferred into three irregularly-shaped plates inside the coupling seen on the image. The plates were then coupled to a 50cm long piece of ivory (the commutator), which held on its other end a seismograph-like drawing needle on a roll of paper. The plates' shapes had to be specially tuned to the composition of the ivory. By running through the frequencies on the cylinder, the operator could, by observing the line on the seismograph paper, find the point where the three vibrations cancelled out, and that is where the local asymptote is.

The Reticulator took the science of encabulation into the real world for the first time. The name of the inventor has been lost to time, but naming such an important device after his dear friend is surely the greatest act of love.

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deltahunters·Delta Hunters - For all things VXbylime!

This rig i came across in the marina last fall had a Thormann modulator on it.

It's interesting how much of this stuff is just out in the open when you look for it. The big yellow thing is a float, i remember the team working on it had dragged it out of the water with a truck. This pump assembly was on the bottom. I thought it was some king of water quality tester but then i saw the modulator. From the oxidation it's taken quite a beating, i'm guessing they were using the lake water as cooling for some sort of despin resonance operation. You don't want that sort of thing unmodulated on an autonomous platform.

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deltahunters·Delta Hunters - For all things VXbylime!

What does this community need?

I've not set up a community before, i just want a place to discuss my hobbies. So if anyone has an idea of what needs to be added, i'm all ears.

My initial thoughts are that we probably want a wiki. Both as a quick reference and as a landing page for newbies. Yes, The Bad Site has one, but it's on fandom and i don't really feel like using it or straight up copying from it.

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newcommunities·New Communitiesbylime!

Delta Hunters - For all things VX

![email protected] to get there from your own instance.

Need a new spurving bearing for your '83 Cosmotronic? Discovered a new type of gradial subpass? or just wanna show off how close to the limit you can take your barn finds? Come to Delta Hunters! Despite the tagline, we welcome discussion about everything encabulation-adjacent, from vintage refibrillators to new flux hammering theories.

Join a community of enthusiasts and help us bring those numbers up!

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3dprinting·3DPrintingbylime!

what in the world is going on here?

i've been battling this wrinkling phenomenon for weeks. it shows up at random, and i can't figure out what i'm doing wrong. i've changed layer height. i've checked the z-offset of the extruder. i've lowered acceleration to 1/10th of normal. i've lowered the flow rate. i've raised the flow rate. i've cleaned the plate with soapy water and IPA. i've checked for bumps on plate and the bed. i've flipped the plate over. i've done automatic and manual levelling. i've redone the bed compensation calibration like twelve times. i've moved and rotated my print. i've tried different colours, materials and makes. i've dried the filaments to under 10% humidity. i've switched extruders. i've placed the printer on a mass damper (a 25kg slab of concrete on top of a 2cm thick rubber granule mat). the last thing i did was physically holding on to the extruder as it moved (that's what that thicker band in the top left is).

this can happen no matter how far along the print i am. it can be fine for the first 300 layers, then start happening on layer 320 and be so serious that the extruder hits the wrinkles and loses its place on layer 330. i've been sitting there staring at the printer as it does it and the filament just seems to... come out like that. it doesn't expand or anything. and sometimes it doesn't happen at all. the only common denominator is that all the prints that it happens on have large horizontal planes.

i don't think this is caused by overextrusion of the first layer, partly because it never happens on the first layer, and partially because i did a bed adhesion test:

yeah adhesion is awful here. i forgot to actually clean the plate this time. but the part in the middle is the only one that matters, and that is clean. if anything that looks like underextrusion. i just don't understand. i think i need professional help. first from the 3d printing community, then from a therapist.

here's my bed compensation matrix, for reference:

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3dprinting·3DPrintingbylime!

can somebody help me figure out what the hell is going on with my petg prints?

i've started printing in petg with pla supports since the support surface finish is so good, but whenever i print round things with tree supports i see what looks like layer shifts. since my printer is a corexy toolchanger and not a bedslinger this behaviour has confounded me until today, when i happened to look at the right time. it seems that the layers of the perimeter are not adhering properly, and as the filament cools it contracts, catches on support material, and pulls the entire ring off of the pla supports. meanwhile on the middle part i see no issues at all.

i don't even know what to call this problem. it's not stringing, it's already extruded plastic that does it. layer adhesion issues maybe? the photo up top is a reconstruction of how this print looked on the bed, since it fell apart the moment i flexed the buildplate.

::: spoiler printer settings printer: Snapmaker u1, 0.4mm hacdened steel nozzles filament: eSun PETG Basic black, Snapspeed PLA yellow

print settings: snapmaker orca "optimal" preset with some minor changes (0.16mm layer height, 15% grid infill (meant to change that), automatic tree supports on build plate only, 2 layer raft, and support interface ironing enabled)

petg settings: orcaslicer's "generic petg" preset with some minor modifications (12mm² max volumetric speed, 265°C nozzle temperature, 10mm retraction, pressure advance disabsed to use the calibration value from the machine) :::

here's a look at the underside of the pieces:

and a closeup of the round part:

as far as i can tell, that's pretty much perfect before it falls apart.

i can still print with the "normal" supports because they come up the sides of the circle, but it feels like a waste of filament. any ideas?

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