If you remove the oil filler cap while the engine is running, do you feel vacuum or a slight pressure if you cover the hole?

Not really related, but I just thought this was quite funny and wanted to share it somewhere 😂

The parts came out perfectly fine, and there was no damage to the mag sheet 🤷👍

Just thought this was (slightly) interesting. It's Jayo's "Easy ABS" - weird stuff, not really like ABS at all. It's very tough, but with poor temp resistance. If you bend it in half, if changes colour very dramatically

I tried to start my laptop earlier, only for nothing to happen. It won't start on battery or when plugged in (it can run without a battery when plugged in). The battery does seem to be dead, and so is the 3V CMOS battery.

I opened it up and noticed a circle visable on one of the inductors. Hopefully you can see it in the picture.

Could this be the problem, or is that normal?

Update: I've tested some suggestion and watched some repair videos, but I found nothing. Goodbye old friend 🥲🤚

Thanks for the help guys

I just saw this and felt I should share it. I'm sure most people here wouldn't fall for it but it can't hurt to make sure 👍

Edit: I just wanted to add, I have no idea what this tried to copy. I'm using Firefox on Linux which is perhaps why it didn't make it to my clipboard 🤷

I'm looking at buying a used reference RX 6800.

I notice there are quite a few brands for the reference model (ASUS, MSI, Sapphire, etc) and wondered if any of them use better components for example. I would quite like lower odds of having coil whine if it's related.

Just to explain my choice of card:

• Max 40mm thick
• Supported by Ollama
• No proprietary software when using linux

If they are, is it possible that they can recover or is it too late?

After homing, when you use the shutdown button in mainsail/klipperscreen/etc, does it also disable your motors? Mine doesn't and I'm wondering if this is normal.

Can anyone tell me what the unit is for the stealthchop threshold?

Edit: I found it. Steathchop switches off at the velocity in mm/s.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VEgwnhLHy3g

Can anyone tell me what these yellow exclamation marks mean?

I just saw a post complaining about the Mozilla layoffs.

I wanted to point out that the vast majority of their income (over 85% in 2022) is from having Google as the default search engine - Ironically, the anti monopoly lawsuit against Google will end this.

Expect things to get worse.

Please don't assume it was just a cruel choice.

S1 S2

0.2 owners, could you tell me how long your bed takes to heat from room temperature to 60 and 100°C please 😁

Currently, if I add a clip which is taller than the project resolution, kdenlive will scale it down so it's all visible and leave black bars at the side. Is there an option so any extra is just trimmed off instead?

I'm sorry if this is something obvious and I haven't spotted it, I'm a complete novice 😅

Edit: I think I've found what I need. The transform effect, and then "adjust to original size".

This is all I need but please let me know if there is a way to make this the default for a project 😁

When I do an overhang test, I always have this problem at about 35°. Does anyone have a suggestion what could be causing it?

• Slicer: Orca
• Layer height: 0.2mm
• Infill: 0% (this has improved it a lot, I think the infill was causing bulging)
• Outer walls: 2
• Overhang speed: 10 or 20mm/s (both look the same)

Solution: I mistakenly thought overhang speed in Orca was based on overhang angle, it is percentage instead (which makes much more sense for different layer heights). My 10-25% overhang speed wasn't set to slow down and that must translate to about 35° at 0.2mm layer height. I now have it set to 30mm/s and it now looks great 👍 And sorry, I was wrong when I stated the overhang speed 😅

Can anyone suggest what causes these lines across the page?

Is a new toner cartridge likely to fix this?

Edit: Line separation is 62.5mm

Edit 2: Thank you to everyone who replied. I've ordered a new toner cartridge and will update this if that solves the problem 🫡

Final update: A new toner cartridge fixed it. It's now printing perfectly! Thank you.

I use rEFInd as my boot manager and sometimes I like to dual boot a new linux distro (just to try out) which I install with a live USB. Unfortunately, after installing, GRUB has always taken the reigns and it becomes a slight inconvenience to get back to rEFInd every time.

Is there some trick that can request grub not to install?

[What prompted me to ask was I tried KaOS yesterday, and during installation it asked what bootloader i wanted and included the option for 'none'.]

Can anyone suggest what might be wrong? I have just changed the clutch and now I am struggling to select gears even when the engine isn't running.

I don't think it's linkage related because it seems to be difficult to select gears just pulling directly on the arms that move the forks too. I don't think I've done anything that should have an effect on the inside of the gearbox, I've removed and refitted the drive shafts and changed the fluid.

Also can anyone confirm my thinking that the clutch and concentric slave cylinder shouldn't be a factor, since the problem exists when the engine isn't running?

Edit: Strangely, after leaving it overnight, gears are selecting perfectly again and I have absolutely no idea why. I didn't change anything 😕

I suppose that should be good news but without knowing what the problem was, I'm not very satisfied. Thank you to everyone for your help.