So, I'm tinkering with the ATtiny 3224 and its PWM capabilities. I can get 256 bits of resolution per cycle at 78.125kHz.

If I drop to 32 bits, that gets me to 625kHz, as shown in the screenshot.

I've done some searching but I may not know the right term and I'm probably looking for a rule of thumb.

What sort of resolution do you need to regulate a DC/DC switch mode? (in this case a pure resistive load that doesn't change)

I think it might be something like a factor for required percentage of change of switch ON time. Such as, you should generally be able to modify your duty cycle by increments of 5% or 0.5% or whatever for proper regulation.

Does this factor have a name?

I'm tinkering with the ATtiny 2 series (ATtiny 3224). I'm also starting to teach myself about switch mode power and surface mount design. I'm planning to drive two Toshiba SSM6K804R MOSFETs. They are logic level MOSFETs with a 4.5V drive. They have a gate capacitance of 1110pF (1nF).

Even though these are logic level MOSFETs, I think I still need an external gate drive for them for crisp switching above a few kHz. I don't need to try and charge the gate directly with the ATtiny as I would need a 2-300ohm resistor in series to protect the microcontroller and that will slow everything down. Also need a pulldown for the gate.

Can someone please recommend a simple IC or maybe a packaged transistor pair that I can slam the gates with?

Questions/comments/advice greatly appreciated!!

Yes, I'll just trust the AI to help me fuck around with grid voltage levels.

With google search results becoming so poor, I guess I need to look into kagi or duck-duck. Pain in my dick, motherless goatfucking, horsehit-happy asshole, corporate varmints gotta fuck it all up for more profit. I'm tired, yo.

I received email and Jerboa notification of a reply 6 days late. Respondant is on a different instance (lemmy.cafe). I don't know if it's a federation/propagation issue, problem may also be on their end.

Link to comment.

Not a huge deal, but I thought y'all might want to know. I didn't see any threads on this after quick scan of support.

*edit typo

I'm working through Modelling & Sculpting the Human Figure by Edouard Lanteri. This bust is used as the example for sculpting the head. Lanteri is working from a plaster copy of the original.

On pg. 39 he gives the title as 'The Lawyer' by Donatello. I haven't been able to find this sculpture attributed to Donatello.

For the earlier examples he's using Michaelangelo's David and I've been able to print my references. I was hoping to find a model of this sculpture as well.

Can anyone please give me more information?

Similar to the tamale lady, boiled peanuts are best purchased from the elderly or a fat kid at a minivan in a parking lot. They come in a styrofoam cup or a ziplock. I like them partially frozen, the brine makes them crunchy.

Due to CAD/CAM and the nature of my industry, I'm stuck with windows on my daily driver for the foreseeable future. (Been using Linux since Ubuntu was new, have multiple servers and old chromebooks running different flavors.)

I've been putting off dealing with this. Goatfucking bullshit pain in my dick. Ffffffuck me right in the ass. I would happily slit Clippy's throat right in front of his little paperclip children and sleep like a baby.

Can I pretty please get recommendations on upgrading to 11 and unfucking it as much as possible? Comfortable editing the registry, using the command line, and monkeying with the BIOS. Anybody know of a good guide for neutering all the AI shit, copliot, onedrive nagging?

*Edit - Solved:

Thank you all very much! This is the advice I was looking for.

Long ago, I learned that when preparing to do a machine incantation; you must give the machine a good cussing. It shows the machine you are the boss and the machine gods are more likely to smile upon your efforts. I have a black cat and crossroads dirt in case things get real bad.

I recently acquired an old electro-cautery unit. Think it is from 1910s or 1920s. Has a big old multi tapped torodial transformer running to a couple of connectors/poles. It is by F. Geiger of Philadelphia. Wood case is labeled 110V. 60 CY. and 4V. 100A. Seriously old school cool and a little horrifying.

Insulation on power cord was brittle as was insulation from secondary to pole. Both have been replaced. I used crimp connections on the primary wires (didn't measure gauge but it's on the order of 20 AWG). I was in a hurry to test and will eventually solder it properly. I added a switch to the new power cord.

It works with output voltage varying from 0.1V to 4V. It gets a woodburning tip glowing orange at setting 4 (2 volts or so). Should make a great woodburner and be useful if I ever need to interrogate someone.

There isn't really a way to ground it and the screw on the control knob is electrically connected to the secondary. I have a gfci adapter that I could plug it into. Basically, if the transformer shorts, 110V could be exposed on the face.

There are two holes on the face plate, the power cord is running through the largest and the other is empty. It may have had a foot pedal.

I want to add a RGB indicator light for voltage level using the small hole. It's a little tricky to tell when the tap is lined up and you're getting voltage. A green - yellow -red fade and maybe white for NC. I have a spare Arduino Nano clone, but am not sure what circuit to rectify the AC with for the ADC. Maybe an Op amp follower? Power supply would be a 110-5v usb charger board. I would prefer to avoid a dual rail supply or higher than 5v.

Thoughts and suggestions appreciated!

Trying to get a better understanding on the whole tankie thing, found this study that seems unbiased. It looks at their online behavior. I would appreciate others review of the study, even if just bullshit or facts.

Jeebus these people are exhausting, they also spray so much disinformation. They remind me of MAGAts.

I don't yet have a feel for the dynamics like I do with MAGAts. How much of it is organized with handlers and such vs. organic true believers?

Been getting slow loads and timeouts all morning. Figure it will probably resolve on its own. Didn't see any reports. Running Jerboa 0.0.77-gplay.

My son is about ready for his first printer. His school is running Cetus MK3 printers, he has a class using them, and his teacher has recommended this printer. He also has an educational seat of Fusion 360.

I'm proficient with Mastercam and hand written/modified G-code. I can help him with CAD no problem. Alignment, assembly, adjustment, and backlash are second nature for me. Have a little better than layman's understanding of printers. (Lusted over the Markforged printer that could do continuous carbon fiber.)

Eventually, will be building my own shop and hope my son might work with me. Hope to include printing, especially in metal.

I've seen some of the flap about Bambu and them closing up the software tool chain. I would like to avoid that sort of thing, for now, openness is better.

Top of my budget is around $500, with $200 probably being better.

Usable prints for tooling/spacers/repairs would be a bonus as would being able to print UV resistant plastic.

My goal for him is to get gud at modelling and get a feel for computer controlled movement. Another goal, harder to describe, is him finding the joy in mechanical tinkering and producing an idea made physical.

Thank you much! What do?

Any of y'all got a tracker that is following which portions of Project 2025 have actually been enacted? Something like the chump lawsuit tracking? Not finding anything with a search.

Does anyone know about Syrian Latakia tobacco?

It's a major component in English and Balkan style pipe tobacco. It has been replaced by the inferior Cyprian Latakia tobacco.

I have added a wifi repeater to the outside of my home so that my wife can watch her critter cams. It is a POE device that runs all the way back to my router.

Would like to install this surge protector but I'm getting conflicting information on grounding it. My installation is to the side of my house, not a metal pole.

Lowest effort options first, I can:

A. Place the protector inside near where the CAT5 enters the basement. Ground to a junction box that I installed that is grounded to the house panel and rod.

B. Ground internally to a water pipe or externally to the outdoor spigot.

C. Drive a ground rod where the cable exits the house and ground to it.

D. Repeat C and also bond to to the pre-existing home ground rod. (Least preferable option, rods would be on opposite corners of house.)

They hate each other so much.

Just looking up some DIY medical procedures and then the unwanted AI goes off the rails.

Found this broken piece in the creek bank. Southwest Pennsylvania. Farmhouse was built in 1922. Coalmining country.

Would have been about 18" in diameter. There is a rough coating in the glaze on the inside and outside of the bowl section. Abrasive enough that I figure it served a mechanical purpose. There are three grooves on the rim that aren't symmetrical to each other.

There might be a makers mark in the center of the glaze inside but I can't make it out. There is also a light blue/green stain on the bottom that might be a mark.

Any ideas?

Celeb_pics appears to be some bot posting from whoischic.com. Cluttters up /all.

The electric PTO clutch on my 1969 mini tractor is dead and discontinued.

Original winding is aluminum 18 gauge. Manufacturer specs were 2.88ohms, 237 turns. The manufacturer specs didn't quite physically match what I found when I took apart the old clutch. If I understand this correctly, the 2.88ohms is the most important part and will pull 4.17 amps.

I just attempted a coil with 18 gauge copper magnet wire. I made it to the max dimensions I can get in the housing with a scramble wind. I'm getting 1.2 ohms, which would pull 10 amps or so. Not good.

Was able to get 187 feet given the resistance.

If I go with 20 gauge copper, assuming I can get 235 feet (1.26 * 187) and I should get 2.319 ohms. Probably get a little more than 235 feet and get the resistance up a little more.

What does this do to the strength of the magnetic field?

Would I be better off putting a power resistor in series with my 18 gauge coil?

Any advice greatly appreciated!