I'm printing some trays that are thin on the bottom maybe 2mm. Not enough for there to be infill. I'm having the same issue on two completely different printers with different filament and different files. I'm using the same Orca profile for both of them though so it has to be a setting, maybe bed temperature? The sides of the trays are perfect.
Shortly after I posted about my weird first layer issue the z axis motor failed completely. It is an oddball cheap motor and I could not find a direct replacement. The screw was also a very small diameter piece of all thread. I replaced the motor with a standard nema motor with a printed bracket. I did have to do some surgery with a Dremel and drill in order to get the new nut mounted to the carrier. I also had to change the steps per mm in firmware for the new screw. I haven't changed any of the slicer settings just different filament which is stringing pretty badly and I think the printer is going a bit fast. Other than that it's running pretty good.
This is a clone of an original MakerBot Replicator with dual extruders, yes it's made out of wood. I've had it for about 12 years and tinkered with it a lot. I started having problems with it and it got set aside for bigger and better printers. I got bored and decided to bring it out again. The biggest challenge has been setting up start gcode. It also can't run standard gcode and instead uses a different format. I'm running octoprint with the GPX plugin. I have never printed using both extruders so my goal is to do that.
I have an old Monoprice Select Mini Pro (v3) that has sat for years. I got it out today to see if it still works and it does. It printed fine the last time I used it but I've gotten bigger and better printers since then. However I lost the slicer profile I was using and decided to start from scratch with Orca. I just plugged in the dimensions and changed some start g code for the initial purge line as the default was going well off the bed. I also tried changing the retraction distance to 4.5 because this is a bowden tube which did not change this issue. The initial purge line and outer perimeter of the first layer stick really well but the middle infill is blobbing at one end and stringing through the middle and not sticking to the bed at all. I have been playing with the z height end stop (the level sensor is bad so I had printed an adjuster for the z end stop) to adjust the initial layer height and I'm pretty sure I went from too high to too low facing the same issue. I know it's not the filament because it's a new spool that I just printed on another printer with yesterday. I'm leaning towards it being a slicer setting of some kind having to do with the extrusion, I'm just not sure which setting it could be. Thanks for any help.
Edit: well the z axis motor just died because I lowered the z axis too far and it hit the bed and it was acting funny earlier so that's probably the issue.
I set up a public game night for a non profit organization. The event space has a bar on one side and Pizza and snacks are available. All ages are welcome as the bar side is segregated from where the gaming area is. We posted it in some FB local groups and I found some local subreddits and discord servers. I even made an Instagram account but it flagged my flyer as spam. It's a smallish town with about 14k people but near a much bigger college town by about 30 minutes. I'm at a loss as what to do since I'm going to give it a go this week too. We discussed having a vintage video game competition such as an old arcade game. Am I missing something or are game nights just not that popular?
I figured I'd share this simple guide since I couldn't find any information on this specific problem. I needed a static website. Hostinger has a limit on "inodes" so in order to keep the number of files to a minimum I wanted to avoid using WordPress and use up a bunch of resources. Instead I created the site using Hugo and uploaded it to Hostinger.
The other day my car started misfiring. I performed a cylinder drop test by disconnecting each ignition coil and determined the misfire was coming from cylinder 2. I then swapped coils to see if that was the issue and the misfire disappeared completely. I did go ahead and replace that ignition coil with a name brand coil ( not cheap generic from the jungle site!)
Upon further inspection I found that the insulation was missing on the wiring going into most of the coil connectors. This must be a common issue as a pack of 4 was only $10.
I spent about an hour replacing all 4 taking my time by doing one wire at a time. Then I took my time with cable management and rewrapping the harness and securing it properly to prevent any chafing or other damage.
A post mortem revealed no visible corrosion on any of the terminals but most of the connectors broke apart when I disassembled them as the plastic had become very brittle
Tools used:
Materials:
American Legion Gaming is an official program of The American Legion’s Department of California. With more states coming aboard, this will soon be a nationally-recognized initiative. 9588 members strong. Friday night hangout playing games and shooting the breeze. You don't have to be a Legionarre to join the discord so come on down!
https://discord.gg/legiongamingOpen linkView original on lemmy.worldTried posting after not using reddit for almost 3 years since there's something that I wanted to tell a bigger audience about. Well I didn't have the minimum karma to post there so I begrudgingly find some posts to comment in. Everything is going smoothly but then I mentioned using Lutris to game on Linux and got downvoted to hell making it impossible to post in the sub then the mods deleted the post anyway. I tried posting in some other bigger subs and one wouldn't let me post at all because I mentioned a discord server (the thing I wanted to plug) and the other my post for removed. I was able to post in one niche sub related to the discord server and got 12 upvotes. Fuck reddit.
We have a coffee machine in the breakroom where we can have unlimited free coffee. They just increased the size of the disposable cups. They're wider and hold a few extra ounces.
I'm hoping to find the best bang for the buck components whether it's used or new. I'm located in the u.s. and will look for deals on eBay. I found a case on FB marketplace for $25 already and have a cheap power supply that claims it's 700w. I'm just not sure what GPU/CPU would be, I figure it should be a ddr4 system to keep costs down. I would be open to a pre built office pc and slapping a GPU into that as well. This would be for "lan" type game nights just to have something that can play pc games as an option.
Edit: I won an eBay auction for an MSI MPG X570 Gaming Plus for $60.
I'm on a committee for a non-profit and put this sheet together just to show people what costs would be for various gaming setups. The goal is to build a gaming community and eventually have big tournaments and possibly fundraising events.
Any feedback would be appreciated.
https://docs.google.com/document/d/1Y30PlLpeN6G4hp35JZ-nDXNGSNAw81GP4q5ibBdxp8A/edit?usp=sharingOpen linkView original on lemmy.worldA loose cow on the University of Illinois campus isn't the only thing turning heads. So is a "couch car." Two engineering students created it for an end-of-t...
I've been looking at marketplace for a small car with good gas mileage that I can get cheap. I don't mind doing work to it like replacing a clutch or dealing with a head gasket or engine replacement. The trouble I'm having in my area ( Midwest United States) is that either mileage is well into the 200k range, price is unrealistic so I won't bother trying to reason with them, the car is more of a headache than it's worth (Chevy Cruze) or there's more than one issue like transmission problem plus body damage. I could go up in price under $10k but I don't see the up side in spending that much to get better gas mileage unless the car can go at least another 5-10 years.
I bought a cheap Hantek 6022BE to learn with and I'm just trying to measure some voltage to check if it's accurate. I'm using openhantek6022 https://github.com/OpenHantek/OpenHantek6022 and also hscope on android. I'm measuring a 19v laptop power supply with the 10x setting on the probe and also a set of leads with a 20x attenuator. When I measure the power supply with my dmm I'm getting 19.22V with the scope I'm getting much higher or lower depending on where I set the voltage per division. Both programs have a calibration function which I did.
20x attenuator showing 19.6v
10x probe showing 20v
10x probe with 2v per division setting only showing 9.81V
Hscope showing 19.9v
I've been having the ABS/Traction control lights come on at random times on the highway. I made a video walking through some of the diagnostic process. Sorry for the quiet audio. Hopefully this helps someone in the future.
I decided to start documenting all of the repairs I'm having to do on an 09' Dodge Grand Caravan. It has quite a few issues at the moment, fortunately everything is cheap and easy to repair on these. I'm mostly going to focus on the diagnostic aspects as all of these repairs are well documented already. Hopefully it's useful content to someone. Cheers.
Really cool feature, I'll just have to live with my mistake.
