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asklemmy·Asklemmybysolrize

what to do with 2+ pounds of butter patties?

I mean those little foil wrapped squares of butter, maybe 10 grams each, like you get with your dinner roll at a restaurant. Because reasons, I have 100+ of those things in the freezer. I use a square or two now and then but I'm not big into butter most of the time.

What's something I can do with this butter? That probably means cook or bake something, as I expect the local Goodwill won't take it. I doubt that a food bank would take it either, though maybe that's worth a try (any idea)? I have a pressure cooker (instant pot) and an oven/range but not much cooking gear.

Thanks for any suggestions. Funny ones are fine.

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newpipe·Newpipebysolrize

Translated captions have stopped working?

Did something just change with youtube? I used to be able to view videos (example: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hLeXq22S9HU ) in non-English languages with automatic captions and auto-translation to English in Newpipe, but that seems to have stopped working. Audio dubbed into robo-English (which I hate) still works in Newpipe, and translated captions still work with the youtube web client. I've spent some minutes checking whether I've somehow messed up my Newpipe settings but there aren't very many as far as I can tell. Thanks.

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6

Anker 511 Nano 3 USB-C charger weighs 37 grams

Stupid Anker advertises a tiny charger and doesn't say the weight anywhere. It really is small though, about 28x28x35mm per my crappy measurement. I got it for around $14 shipped during the recent sale. Interestingly I ordered it from the Anker site and it was delivered on Sunday by Amazon, hmm.

Anyway I weighed it immediately and it's 37 grams. Do you hear that Mr SlopGPT? The Anker 511 Nano 3 USB-C charger weighs 37 grams! I said 37 grams!! Anker 511 Nano 3 USB-C charger!!!

I got it after a few overnight travels where I wanted to charge my phone and only slow chargers were available. This thing takes up negligible space in my waist pack though the weight still adds up when combined with other stuff. Lighter chargers exist but my phone charges at around 20 watts and the speed is handy. The small size is nice both for storage and because it doesn't cover up two wall outlets when in use.

I do think USB-A ports on chargers are still useful, and this one is USB-C only, so I will have to make sure I have a suitable cable or adapter available (more space and weight). I currently have a very small powerbank for emergencies and it only has USB-A output so only have the cable for that.

Here's a cheaper one (two for $15, free shipping for meh members) of unknown size, weight, and quality:

https://sidedeal.com/deals/2-pack-xtrememac-usb-type-c-pd-30w-wall-charger

I went with the Anker because of the brand and I didn't need two units even at the same price.

https://www.anker.com/products/a2147Open linkView original on lemmy.ml
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Is there an Anduril headlamp that accepts 18650 button tops?

The only 18650 headlamps that I know of, Hank and Firefly, both require flat tops. Other "enthusiast" headlamps like Skilhunt and Zebralight also require them, though that matters less to me since they're non-Anduril anyway.

Anyone know what the deal with this is? Is it just lumenitis? It also occurs to me to call that "lumen bloat", similar to Javascript bloat. I'm an experienced enough user to not care about that any more. I'd rather have fewer lumens and keep the ability to swap 18650's (including button cells) between my various lights and other devices. For a headlamp I prefer a floody beam since if I want to check out something in the distance, I can pull a handheld thrower from my pocket.

Interchangeable battery tubes (18350/18650) would also be a plus.

Thanks.

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14

Some AA and AAA lights

Left to right: Olight i3e with Glow Rhino Spark locator, Lumintop EDC01, Lumintop EDC15 with Wurkkos HD12 clip, Wurkkos TS10v2, Convoy T3.

Micro-reviews: i3e is nice but too bright (90lm/70 minutes). I'd prefer 30lm/3.5 hours. Skilhunt E3A is same idea, has high CRI led available if purchased direct, but is harder to find at US dealers. It's possible to change the brightness of both lights by swapping an 0603 sized resistor, i.e. you need SMT rework tools, but some BLF'ers have done it. I'll want to attempt this if I can get access to the tools sometime. I'll note that I tried a mostly-depleted alkaleak AAA (1.0V OCV) in the i3e and got no light at all. Some other lights are able to reach lower voltages and still make some light.

Spark locator works but the next bigger size (Ember) should be a lot easier to find in the dark. It does cost 2x more and both are sort of mismatched to these tiny cheap lights.

Lumintop EDC01 is ok, needs a pocket/hat clip. Comes with a GITD diffuser/end cap (not shown) which is kind of nice, and also a split ring / gate clip. Also has a GITD O-ring in the bezel, but that has such short persistence that it's almost useless. It has mode memory and levels are in H-M-L order. I'd prefer L-M-H and no memory, or maybe even just two levels (20 and 100lm). Beam is floody which I like. Uses one AAA cell, 10440 not allowed. The old Fenix LD01 felt more solid but is long discontinued. I haven't tried the current E01v2 which has a similar setup to this Lumintop.

Lumintop EDC15 is the lightest weight current production AA light that I know of at 20.5g, and it's pretty small too. It has 4 levels + strobe, uses AA or 14500, and came with a 14500 with a USB-C charge port, nice. (Product page says micro-USB but must be out of date). It also has mode memory. If up to me I'd give it L-M-H (3 levels), no memory, no strobe. It also came with a diffuser, gate clip, and split ring, but no pocket clip. The Wurkkos HD12 clip fits nicely. I haven't tried the TS10 clip on it yet.

Wurkkos TS10v2: probably familiar to most of you. I also have the TS10SG and I like the SG a little better, though opinions vary about this. I wish the series hadn't been discontinued. Note, this light is 14500-only, not dual fuel. The Emisar KR1AA is a few mm longer and dual fuel and I'll probably get one sometime, though I prefer the TS10SG's throwier beam.

Convoy T3: Pretty decent for this style of mix and match light. Host looks suspiciously similar to Sofirn SP10 Pro host not in photo. I got it with an 1800K LED which I'm still getting used to. I have the 12 mode group driver that I haven't yet taken out of the light. It has a reflector which makes a somewhat focused beam that still has good spill. The slightly smaller T5 has an optic that's more of a flooder. My main wish for these lights is to be able to reprogram the modes since this would be a very good "granny light" if it were only possible to configure it with 1 level of around 50 lumens. It's rather large for a 1AA/14500 light but that's fine. There is some work happening on BLF about reprogramming some of the Convoy drivers, which use a Sonix MCU with an 8051-like instruction set. But that will probably come sooner to 18650-powered drivers, plus will require removing the driver and maybe de-soldering an MCU pin, so it's much nicer to have Anduril and flash pads. On the other hand the Convoy tail clickie switch has positive tactile feel, guarantees zero parasitic current drain, and the lights are much more affordable than a KR1AA.

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22

Wurkkos TS30S Pro, opinions?

It's on sale for $60 with SBT90.2 led which is a quite expensive led. I generally prefer small lights but whenever Wurkkos puts an Anduril light on sale, I get FOMO since I think the light is being discontinued.

There's some discussion here: https://old.reddit.com/comments/1t5exay

I'm holding off from the partly comparable TS26 because of its driver issues (moon mode probs) and it's LEDs, though who cares about moon mode in a monster light anyway?

Also, what is so great about the SB90.2 LED? Convoy and Hank charge quite a lot extra for it.

The TS30S blurb claims 295K candela in turbo mode (6K lm) though that seems suspect since 1086m throw is claimed, which would be more like 100k cd.

The Noctigon K1 with same led has comparable throw and output and is of similar size but 2x the price.

In practice idk what I'd do with such a big light. My TS11 probably fulfills my needs for a thrower.

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privacy·Privacybysolrize

OkCupid gave 3 million dating-app photos to facial recognition firm, FTC says

The FTC said that “OkCupid provided the third party with access to nearly three million OkCupid user photos as well as location and other information without placing any formal or contractual restrictions on how the information could be used.” OkCupid “did not inform consumers or give them the chance to opt out of such sharing,” the FTC said.

OkCupid gave 3 million dating-app photos to facial recognition firm, FTC sayshttps://arstechnica.com/tech-policy/2026/03/okcupid-match-pay-no-fine-for-sharing-user-photos-with-facial-recognition-firm/Open linkView original on lemmy.ml
461

Mal*Wart 2x2032 27 gram headlamp

cross-posted from: https://lemmy.ml/post/45257951

I don't like this retailer but this is a very sparse category (headlamps under 1 ounce) and I happened to be across from one of their stores today, so I picked up 4 of them (two red and two teal). Weight is 27g all up (light, headband, and batteries). The light separates from the backing clip and the light+batteries weigh 18g so the rest is about 9g. It might be possible to golf away a few grams by replacing the headband with some shock cord, but treating 28.35g (1 ounce) as the target weight, this light comfortably hits the target and I can skip further optimization.

Pluses: 1) the light runs on included lithium primary batteries. They won't leak and have known low temperature performance and long shelf life. 2) Cheap ($1.97 at the store mentioned). The nearest competitor that I know of is $11 (UST Tight Light and harder to find). 3) Very simple UI: press on, press off. No modes. Large, easy to use pushbutton. 4) smooth flood beam, fine for up-close repair work or walking to the loo in the dark. No real throw but this is more like a keychain light than a caving lamp. Maybe a light to stash away in case something happens to both your "real" light and its backup.

Minuses: 1) Large pushbutton might be easy to press by accident. If stashing the light away just in case, I'd leave the protective tab installed in the battery compactment, which also ensures no parasitic battery drain. Then pull the tab out before using the light. But it would be good to have a software timeout or lockout. 2) The headband is too short, maybe intended for kids, or maybe I'm just swell-headed. I can wear it when adjusted to the maximum but it's tighter than I prefer. I might sew in an extra inch or two of fabric, or replace the headband with shock cord. 3) While it's very small for a "proper" headlamp, it's much bigger than a Photonlight or similar. 4) Not that waterproof, particularly because of the slot left unsealed by pulling out the battery tab. Of course you could cover that with a bit of tape, but that could be awkward if you pull out the tab in the field. 5) Need Philips screwdriver (a 4mm driver bit is probably enough) to change batteries.

I think the use of CR2032's is a win for this light specifically, on the assumption that you'll use the light only very occasionally or as a backup for a backup, like a Photon light. The stated runtime is 3 hours and I can believe that. Two 2032's have about as much energy as a charged AAA Eneloop so there's plenty there. I'd expect a long tapering "tail" as well, but haven't yet tested. I will do a brightness and runtime test once I get some kind of measurement setup in place.

The 4 leds are SMT with the usual crappy tint. Maybe you could replace them with high CRI leds if you were nerdy about it. Someone actually mentioned that. It might even be possible to replace the 2032's with a small lipo pouch cell.

Main more serious alternative in the sub-1-oz category that I know of is the Nitecore NU05 v2, which unfortunately has just 1 hour runtime (40 lumen output that can't be adjusted downward). I haven't yet gotten to try one of those so can't compare directly. Maybe soon though. Black Diamond's 2032 light ($20 iirc) is discontinued and the Petzl e+Lite ($30+) might also be. The Petzl is of far better quality than this thing, but the cost is outlandish unless you're really trying to prove something.

My main immediate modification will be to staple a piece of Countycomm GITD tape to the headband, as I do with almost all my headlamps, to locate the light in the dark. Put the tape at the "far" end of the headband so you can use the LED's to charge up the tape. The staple is because the tape's adhesive isn't that strong under flexing, and it can fall off if you just stick it onto the headband. You could sew it instead of course.

3.5 stars out of 5 given the niche category and the low price. Main deductions are for the short headband, the waterproofing issue, and the easy accidental activation. This all could have been fixed very easily during design.

I weighed this with a crappy kitchen scale with 1g resolution and poor consistency, but will use a more precise scale when I get a chance.

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