Spyke

[Review] Sofirn SK31 – great hardware, poor software

Summary

Great hardware, poor software – that’s the Sofirn SK31 in a nutshell. The combination of a powerful LMP LHP73B with a well-regulated driver, a two-stage tail switch, a separate switch for the lockout and a screwed cover for the USB-C charging port provide the perfect hardware foundation for a great flashlight.

The operation is all the more disappointing. The two-stage switch leaves much of its potential unused. For example, there is no direct access to the lowest or highest brightness level and in Tactical Mode, the switch must be held halfway down for a full five seconds to keep the flashlight on. Minor firmware bugs make the overall experience even less enjoyable.

The full review is available here:

English review at BudgetLightForum
German review on my website

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44

[Review] Imalent BTL50 – a different kind of zoom flashlight

Summary

The Imalent BTL50 is not a zoom flashlight in the traditional sense, yet the width of its beam can still be adjusted – without any moving parts. This is made possible by an integrated diffuser whose strength can be controlled electronically. This technology is extremely rare in flashlights, but highly practical.

Although the flashlight feels compact and comfortable to handle, the capacity of the built-in battery is somewhat limited for its size. The flashlight stands out with its slightly futuristic design and stylish leather-like covering. The width of the beam is adjusted with a rotary control, which allows for smooth, intuitive operation. A pocket clip or holster, however, would have been a welcome addition.

The full review is available here:

English review at BudgetLightForum
German review on my website

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(SOLVED) Which emitter should I get for the Convoy T6 flashlight?

cross-posted from: https://sopuli.xyz/post/48392158

I can't decide between the SFT-25R and SFT-40 emitters. The price difference between them is negligible, and every online article seems to have differing opinions on which one has more throw, spill, etc.

Also, I am indecisive on the colour temperature. 5000K is daylight coloured apparently, while 6500K is cooler (blue tinted) and 3000K is warmer (yellow tinted, only available for SFT-40). I don't like cooler lights, so I guess I will probably go with 5000K (unless 3000K isn't super warm, then maybe that one?)

I am going with the Conway T6 as it's compatible with regular AA batteries (like my IKEA Laddas), but as I understand, lights with built-in charging functions (e.g. Skilhunt EC150) usually don't work with NiMH batteries, only Li-ion 14500 batteries.* I don't think the Conway T6 has that, but I could be wrong. The T6 also cokes in a really unique purple colour!

*small edit: I meant that the charging bits don't always work for NiMH batteries for most flashlights, the light itself would still work. The wording is a little unclear, sorry about that!

edit 2: I'm purchasing the T6 w/ the SFT-40 3000K emitter! Thanks everyone!

View original on sopuli.xyz

Broken battery ):

I have an Acebeam Pokelit 2AA, a brilliant little light, my first true EDC light.

It uses a custom Lithium battery called ARC14100P-160A which has a USB-C charging circuit built into the top of the battery.

This week the battery died, I noted that the light didn't turn on with the battery, but with 2x 2AA NMIH it works.

When I connect it to charge, the charge LED just lights up green and the battery pulls no current (tested with my USB power meter), I tried to test the voltage of the battery with a multimeter, but it shows as 0 volts.

To me, all of this indicate an issue with the battery's protection circuit, as I believe even a discharged lithium battery should show some voltage.

Has anyone else seen this issue?

What weirds me out about this is that the charge LED just shows as fully charged when I connect it...

Is it trickle charging at that point, do I plug it in and leave it?

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6

[Review] Nitecore P27iX – tactical flashlight with great UI and adjustable beam width

Summary

The Nitecore P27iX is a tactical flashlight that impresses with a well-designed user interface and four special "M515S" LEDs. The multi-stage tail buttons provide direct access to four brightness levels, while a sliding switch reliably protects the flashlight against accidental activation. Only the SET button on the head requires some getting used to. Also worth mentioning are the battery level indicators and the USB charging port with its metal flip cover.

The width of the beam can be adjusted in three steps – a useful, though not strictly essential feature. In addition to the four regular brightness levels, there are two particularly bright modes called "Search" and "Lumin Shield". Some of the button assignments can be customized to suit personal preferences.

A major drawback, in my view, is the proprietary battery. A design that works with standard 21700 cells would have been clearly the better option. The NL2155HPi is not only relatively expensive at over $30, but its long-term availability is also not guaranteed.

The full review is available here:

English review at BudgetLightForum
German review on my website

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23

Is there an Anduril headlamp that accepts 18650 button tops?

The only 18650 headlamps that I know of, Hank and Firefly, both require flat tops. Other "enthusiast" headlamps like Skilhunt and Zebralight also require them, though that matters less to me since they're non-Anduril anyway.

Anyone know what the deal with this is? Is it just lumenitis? It also occurs to me to call that "lumen bloat", similar to Javascript bloat. I'm an experienced enough user to not care about that any more. I'd rather have fewer lumens and keep the ability to swap 18650's (including button cells) between my various lights and other devices. For a headlamp I prefer a floody beam since if I want to check out something in the distance, I can pull a handheld thrower from my pocket.

Interchangeable battery tubes (18350/18650) would also be a plus.

Thanks.

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Some AA and AAA lights

Left to right: Olight i3e with Glow Rhino Spark locator, Lumintop EDC01, Lumintop EDC15 with Wurkkos HD12 clip, Wurkkos TS10v2, Convoy T3.

Micro-reviews: i3e is nice but too bright (90lm/70 minutes). I'd prefer 30lm/3.5 hours. Skilhunt E3A is same idea, has high CRI led available if purchased direct, but is harder to find at US dealers. It's possible to change the brightness of both lights by swapping an 0603 sized resistor, i.e. you need SMT rework tools, but some BLF'ers have done it. I'll want to attempt this if I can get access to the tools sometime. I'll note that I tried a mostly-depleted alkaleak AAA (1.0V OCV) in the i3e and got no light at all. Some other lights are able to reach lower voltages and still make some light.

Spark locator works but the next bigger size (Ember) should be a lot easier to find in the dark. It does cost 2x more and both are sort of mismatched to these tiny cheap lights.

Lumintop EDC01 is ok, needs a pocket/hat clip. Comes with a GITD diffuser/end cap (not shown) which is kind of nice, and also a split ring / gate clip. Also has a GITD O-ring in the bezel, but that has such short persistence that it's almost useless. It has mode memory and levels are in H-M-L order. I'd prefer L-M-H and no memory, or maybe even just two levels (20 and 100lm). Beam is floody which I like. Uses one AAA cell, 10440 not allowed. The old Fenix LD01 felt more solid but is long discontinued. I haven't tried the current E01v2 which has a similar setup to this Lumintop.

Lumintop EDC15 is the lightest weight current production AA light that I know of at 20.5g, and it's pretty small too. It has 4 levels + strobe, uses AA or 14500, and came with a 14500 with a USB-C charge port, nice. (Product page says micro-USB but must be out of date). It also has mode memory. If up to me I'd give it L-M-H (3 levels), no memory, no strobe. It also came with a diffuser, gate clip, and split ring, but no pocket clip. The Wurkkos HD12 clip fits nicely. I haven't tried the TS10 clip on it yet.

Wurkkos TS10v2: probably familiar to most of you. I also have the TS10SG and I like the SG a little better, though opinions vary about this. I wish the series hadn't been discontinued. Note, this light is 14500-only, not dual fuel. The Emisar KR1AA is a few mm longer and dual fuel and I'll probably get one sometime, though I prefer the TS10SG's throwier beam.

Convoy T3: Pretty decent for this style of mix and match light. Host looks suspiciously similar to Sofirn SP10 Pro host not in photo. I got it with an 1800K LED which I'm still getting used to. I have the 12 mode group driver that I haven't yet taken out of the light. It has a reflector which makes a somewhat focused beam that still has good spill. The slightly smaller T5 has an optic that's more of a flooder. My main wish for these lights is to be able to reprogram the modes since this would be a very good "granny light" if it were only possible to configure it with 1 level of around 50 lumens. It's rather large for a 1AA/14500 light but that's fine. There is some work happening on BLF about reprogramming some of the Convoy drivers, which use a Sonix MCU with an 8051-like instruction set. But that will probably come sooner to 18650-powered drivers, plus will require removing the driver and maybe de-soldering an MCU pin, so it's much nicer to have Anduril and flash pads. On the other hand the Convoy tail clickie switch has positive tactile feel, guarantees zero parasitic current drain, and the lights are much more affordable than a KR1AA.

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22

[Review] Armytek Predator Pro Max

Summary

The Armytek Predator Pro Max lives up to its name: compared to its predecessor, it is brighter, has a longer runtime and more throw – all while maintaining nearly the same size. It comes with a new side button, which eliminates the need to loosen or tighten the head to adjust the brightness. Other features like the electronic tail switch and the convenient magnetic charging system are still included.

However, if you don’t want to use the flashlight at full power all the time, it can quickly become a challenge to use: in the dark, the side button for adjusting the brightness is hard to find, as it neither stands out in color nor in shape.

The full review is available here:

English review at BudgetLightForum
German review on my website

View original on lemmy.world
34

Wurkkos TS30S Pro, opinions?

It's on sale for $60 with SBT90.2 led which is a quite expensive led. I generally prefer small lights but whenever Wurkkos puts an Anduril light on sale, I get FOMO since I think the light is being discontinued.

There's some discussion here: https://old.reddit.com/comments/1t5exay

I'm holding off from the partly comparable TS26 because of its driver issues (moon mode probs) and it's LEDs, though who cares about moon mode in a monster light anyway?

Also, what is so great about the SB90.2 LED? Convoy and Hank charge quite a lot extra for it.

The TS30S blurb claims 295K candela in turbo mode (6K lm) though that seems suspect since 1086m throw is claimed, which would be more like 100k cd.

The Noctigon K1 with same led has comparable throw and output and is of similar size but 2x the price.

In practice idk what I'd do with such a big light. My TS11 probably fulfills my needs for a thrower.

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8

[Review] Wuben X1 Pro – high-power flashlight with active cooling that fits into your pocket

Summary

I have not seen more light from a flashlight of this size. Thanks to its flat form factor, the Wuben X1 Pro fits easily into your pocket. With spotlight, floodlight or a combination of both, the light can be adapted to any situation. Active fan cooling allows for longer operation at high brightness. The batteries can either be charged directly in the light via USB-C or quickly replaced if needed.

However, the specified 12300 lm output is not fully achieved and also drops quickly within the first few seconds. After that, 3000 lumens are maintained consistently for about 1.5 hours. With heavy use, the fan could be affected by water and dirt, but it can be replaced relatively easy if needed.

The full review is available here:

English review at BudgetLightForum
German review on my website

View original on lemmy.world
51

Mal*Wart 2x2032 27 gram headlamp

I don't like this retailer but this is a very sparse category (headlamps under 1 ounce) and I happened to be across from one of their stores today, so I picked up 4 of them (two red and two teal). Weight is 27g all up (light, headband, and batteries). The light separates from the backing clip and the light+batteries weigh 18g so the rest is about 9g. It might be possible to golf away a few grams by replacing the headband with some shock cord, but treating 28.35g (1 ounce) as the target weight, this light comfortably hits the target and I can skip further optimization.

Pluses: 1) the light runs on included lithium primary batteries. They won't leak and have known low temperature performance and long shelf life. 2) Cheap ($1.97 at the store mentioned). The nearest competitor that I know of is $11 (UST Tight Light and harder to find). 3) Very simple UI: press on, press off. No modes. Large, easy to use pushbutton. 4) smooth flood beam, fine for up-close repair work or walking to the loo in the dark. No real throw but this is more like a keychain light than a caving lamp. Maybe a light to stash away in case something happens to both your "real" light and its backup.

Minuses: 1) Large pushbutton might be easy to press by accident. If stashing the light away just in case, I'd leave the protective tab installed in the battery compactment, which also ensures no parasitic battery drain. Then pull the tab out before using the light. But it would be good to have a software timeout or lockout. 2) The headband is too short, maybe intended for kids, or maybe I'm just swell-headed. I can wear it when adjusted to the maximum but it's tighter than I prefer. I might sew in an extra inch or two of fabric, or replace the headband with shock cord. 3) While it's very small for a "proper" headlamp, it's much bigger than a Photonlight or similar. 4) Not that waterproof, particularly because of the slot left unsealed by pulling out the battery tab. Of course you could cover that with a bit of tape, but that could be awkward if you pull out the tab in the field. 5) Need Philips screwdriver (a 4mm driver bit is probably enough) to change batteries.

I think the use of CR2032's is a win for this light specifically, on the assumption that you'll use the light only very occasionally or as a backup for a backup, like a Photon light. The stated runtime is 3 hours and I can believe that. Two 2032's have about as much energy as a charged AAA Eneloop so there's plenty there. I'd expect a long tapering "tail" as well, but haven't yet tested. I will do a brightness and runtime test once I get some kind of measurement setup in place.

The 4 leds are SMT with the usual crappy tint. Maybe you could replace them with high CRI leds if you were nerdy about it. Someone actually mentioned that. It might even be possible to replace the 2032's with a small lipo pouch cell.

Main more serious alternative in the sub-1-oz category that I know of is the Nitecore NU05 v2, which unfortunately has just 1 hour runtime (40 lumen output that can't be adjusted downward). I haven't yet gotten to try one of those so can't compare directly. Maybe soon though. Black Diamond's 2032 light ($20 iirc) is discontinued and the Petzl e+Lite ($30+) might also be. The Petzl is of far better quality than this thing, but the cost is outlandish unless you're really trying to prove something.

My main immediate modification will be to staple a piece of Countycomm GITD tape to the headband, as I do with almost all my headlamps, to locate the light in the dark. Put the tape at the "far" end of the headband so you can use the LED's to charge up the tape. The staple is because the tape's adhesive isn't that strong under flexing, and it can fall off if you just stick it onto the headband. You could sew it instead of course.

3.5 stars out of 5 given the niche category and the low price. Main deductions are for the short headband, the waterproofing issue, and the easy accidental activation. This all could have been fixed very easily during design.

I weighed this with a crappy kitchen scale with 1g resolution and poor consistency, but will use a more precise scale when I get a chance.

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7

Chemical lightstick lumen/runtime test request

I wonder if someone here with suitable test equipment could run a graph on a chemical glowstick, the ordinary 12 hour kind, not a special fancy one. I'm basically hoping for a rough estimate of the lumen output and its decay over time. I did a bit of web search and got drastically varying numbers. I guess I could make an eyeball estimate, but would want to use a reflector of some kind for the ceiling bounce.

Does anyone know if reflectors like the below are still being made? Of course I can DIY one if necessary. Web search didn't find anything quickly, but it's difficult to keep the results relevant.

https://www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/nos-vintage-glow-stick-lantern-1960s-4706797024

I'm quite dubious of chemical light in this day and age, but they come up in discussions sometimes, so I'm interested in a concrete comparison against flashlights. Thanks!

Added: I'm happy to reimburse the cost of a few glowsticks if you're up for running this test. Or it's possible that I could order some and have them sent to you (Home Despot free delivery). PM if you want this.

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7

Reintroducing Ceilingbounce - flashlight testing and runtime graphs for Android

Reintroducing Ceilingbounce - flashlight testing and runtime graphs for Android

In 2015, I wrote an Android app for flashlight reviewers. If you read or watch many flashlight reviews, you've probably seen graphs with a black background and a yellow line generated by Ceilingbounce. Unfortunately, the tools used to build it were abandoned by the volunteers who created them, and soon after became incompatible with the current state of Android. I couldn't release updates, and installation on new devices required developer tools. Now it's back, and more features are coming soon.

https://zakreviews.com/ceilingbounce.html

#flashlight #android #app @flashlight

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