Was anybody else at the show? The hype was real. They stopped letting people in because it was over capacity, and people were climbing over fences and on buildings to get a view.

It was a good time, and I've never seen the Jazz Fest crowd so excited for a performance before.

Back in 2008 I bought an Overboard waterproof backpack. That thing took a beating for almost 15 years before the straps started giving up. It's been through months-long trips and Canadian winters and saw near-daily use for the entire time. One thing that I loved is that I could take it on a plane, and it just fit as a carry-on, and it could comfortably squeeze underneath the seats on a plane. At the time, I heartily recommended it to everyone.

Unfortunately after 15 years, the original model was long discontinued, and they didn't offer repairs, so I decided to buy one of their newer models. The material is thinner and flimsier, and it only took about 6 months before it started cracking where the new design forces it to flex. It's also limited to either sealing it by clipping it where it rolls up or holding the roll with a weak piece of velcro, whereas my old one had clips at the bottom of the bag which allowed it to seal and pack much better. Anyway, the poor quality of my second purchase means I don't recommend their stuff anymore.

Anyway, does anyone have any recommendations for a good waterproof backpack? I don't necessarily need a dry bag as I don't expect to ever submerge it, but I would like to keep stuff dry under monsoon rains for example. I need something durable and packable, and ideally something carry-on size, about 30L.

I appreciate any help

I've been biking my whole life, but I've never had a bike that shifted properly. Like I've literally bought a bike, and right from the shop, the shifter's clicks don't line up with the gears properly. And then it's a game of going up two clicks and then back down one to get the chain lined up properly.

So how do I get it just right? The bike I have has Shimano twist shifters all the clicks numbered, but the numbers don't line up with the actual gears.

The closest I've gotten it is where it works perfectly when the bike is on the lift, but as soon as there's weight on it, it goes out of sync again.

Is it safe to cut steel with a miter saw?

I have a small project and I need to cut 3/4" steel square tube. I already own a miter saw, and I don't have the space or otherwise a need for a dedicated tool for cutting metal. I was hoping to just pick up a metal-cutting circular saw blade and use that.

My googling seems to either tell me it will cut like through butter or it will explode in my face and set fire to the house and my wife will leave me and take the kids with her.

I've been tasked with finding gear motors to replace a model that we use. If I'm looking for something exact, I can usually find what I need, but if I have a margin of error for what I need, it gets harder to find what I want.

As an example, I need a right angle gear motor running at 90vdc. Fine so far. But I can use anything around 1/7 to 1/10 HP, and approximately 90 RPM with a decent margin of error both ways.

We don't care where it comes from, but I don't even know where to look.

I'm running KDE on Nobara, and every time I power on my computer, there's something in the clipboard leftover from the previous session despite that setting being turned off. I'm not 100% sure, but sometimes I think that it's not even the last thing I copied. I'd have to make a mental note to check every time.

Is there something I can do to fix this besides the basic system settings dialog?

So far it looks like KDEConnect may be passing my clipboard back and forth between my PC and my phone. I'll have to wait and see how it changes after disabling clipboard sharing.

EDIT: The next day, I'm going to say this solved the issue for me. For anyone else wondering, in the KDEConnect settings, you can either disable clipboard sharing entirely or prevent automatically sharing the clipboard, which lets you manually share the clipboard only when you want to.

I was playing Ark Survival Ascended when my system locked up. No response from the mouse or keyboard, screen frozen, sound loop about 1 second long. I let it sit for a minute, thinking maybe it'll break out of it, and eventually had to force the power off with the power button.

I restarted my system, and now my performance in games is really bad, I'm getting about 20fps where I used to get 80-100, sometimes it gets so bad it goes into the single digits. I get stuttering sound as well and some pretty bad input lag. In Ark, I can see the textures slowly pop in over time, which normally happens in a matter of a second or two.

Looking at CoreCtrl, if I set it to high performance mode, the GPU's power usage peaks around 150 Watts instead of 300+.

I'm running Nobara on a 7900X3D and an RX 7900XT with 32GB RAM.

Not sure how to go about diagnosing my issue here. I haven't made any software changes, so I'm a little lost as to why this would happen.

Update: After trying everything suggested here, and all the googling I could manage, I ended up doing a full reinstall, and kept having issues. Eventually, I narrowed it down to the PCIE riser cable in my case (which I suppose I should have mentioned in the first place) which is supposed to be PCIE 4.0, but it seems to be what was causing my issues. I set my PCIE to 3.0 in the BIOS and everything is fine so far. I don't notice any performance reduction at all, so it probably wasn't saturating PCIE 4.0, but the riser isn't good enough for it I guess.

Like the Ender 3 V3 SE at $200 and the Ender 3 S1 Pro at $250.

They don't seem to have any interesting deals on consumables, sadly.

I just bought a nice OLED monitor and I'm trying to take advantage of it to play my games in HDR. If I run my games in gamescope, then HDR runs fine but my PS4 controller doesn't work. If I play without gamescope, the controller works, but HDR does not.

I've been trying to figure this out for a bit, and some people have been having some luck with the -e flag, which does nothing for me.I've tried Steam Input and overlay in all combinations of enabled and disabled and I've tried in big picture/gamepadui. Either way I have to choose between HDR and the controller. Has anyone gotten this to work?

I modeled an object in Blender intending to print it, but when I import it into PrusaSlicer or Cura, the dimensions don't quite match.

In Blender, the dimensions are 178mm x 142mm, but when I import it into Cura or PrusaSlicer, it imports it as 180 x 138mm. I can manually adjust the dimensions, but why is this happening? And will it mess up my fit in the end? Who do I trust here? I don't want to waste hours printing for nothing.

I've been listening to this a bunch lately. This is the cleanest-sounding concert recording I've ever found on youtube.

I want to put grilled paneer, arugula, and salmon roe on a cracker as an appetizer or early snack.

I feel like the salty/umami roe with the bitter/peppery freshness of arugula on the grilled paneer would taste nice. In terms of texture there would be the chewy/squeaky cheese, the crispy cracker, and the pop of the roe.

I'm thinking a cracker like a triscuit, but I feel like they're too thick for what I'm trying to put together.

Anyway, before I spend time and money to make a concoction that tastes like garbage, does anyone have any opinions or suggestions?

I have a model I want to print that has multiple layers of internal walls. They are useless and can't be seen in the finished product, like a hollow cylinder inside another hollow cylinder.

I can't seem to figure out how to prevent the slicer from including those useless parts. I've tried with Cura and PrusaSlicer. Is there another tool I should be using for this?

I just got my printer, got it all set up, followed all the instructions, and it looks like it should be working, but it's not.

I've gone through the auto bed leveling, then adjusted the height with a piece of paper. Now, trying to run my first test print, the only thing the printer will do is attempt to auto-level itself. If I let it go, it will just do it over and over. If I hit the stop button, it gives me error message 203 (Probing Failed), the screen locks up, and the printer keeps attempting to auto-level over and over. The only thing I can do is turn it off.

What am I missing?

Edit: So it turns out the included test files are no good. I downloaded a benchy and it printed just fine.

When you make something that's too big for your printer, how do you hide the seams from bonding when aesthetics are a priority?

This is one of two habanero plants I started as an experiment a couple months ago. This one has about 40 peppers growing on it right now and a ton of open flowers.

It spent most of its time in a tent, but I brought it outside about a month ago, and it's taking quite a liking to real sunshine.

Anyone have any experience playing over Steam Link on wifi?

It seems like no matter what I do, the performance is really shitty. Both the host and the client are in line of sight of the router, and I can get 500+ mbps and my latency seems good, but the performance is garbage. As soon as I go wired, I can get great performance at 100mbps or less.

Is there a good way to mitigate this? Am I doing something wrong?

I found the Kharaa antidote in the pengling cave, and I got the voice lines confirming it, but it never unlocked the blueprint for it and I can't craft it. Is there a way around this, or am I missing something else?

I didn't want to look up spoilers, but I couldn't find the injectable vessel after I found the vaccine itself, so I looked it up and it said it unlocks after you find the antidote in the cave and you have to craft it.

This is new since yesterday, I don't know what's happening. My PC has been partially powering off suddenly and without warning. My displays lose input, my peripherals turn off, and the computer stops responding to everything. It's still "on" with fans spinning and the power button's LED is lit, but won't respond to holding down the power button to force it to shut off. The only thing I can do is turn it off at the power supply or unplug it.

I thought it was a one-time thing, but it happened again today. I've never seen this before. Anyone have any insight into what's happening?

Edit: I ran a memory test which came out clear. I ran stress tests on CPU & GPU, which didn't cause any issues. My temperatures have always been fine, with nothing ever going above 75 degrees. Eventually, the BIOS lost track of the date/time so that pretty much gave it away. The computer eventually stopped booting entirely, so I replaced the CMOS battery and everything seems to be running fine for now.

For the record, replacing the battery on an ITX build without taking the whole thing apart is somewhat of a pain.