Spyke

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3dprinting·3DPrintingbyTrail

Any ideas on what is the reason for the first layer being shit?

Hey guys,

I am using Bambu lab sunflower yellow. I have dried it, and washed my plate. With this particular filament the first layer looks like shit, but the rest of the print turns out fine. Other filaments have proper thick lines of equal height and so on.

I only have a problem with this particular color sinw opening the filament. Is it just the filament being shit or you can think of anything else I could check?

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3dprinting·3DPrintingbyTrail

Help identifying issue?

Hey guys, Any help trying to identify what is wrong with this one?

The first layer was pretty flawless except for the top-right side, where it looked kind of grainy. Maybe the plate needed cleaning on that side, but generally the adhesion is solid.

I was away while the second layer was printing, but apparently it failed and it looks like shit. When I got back, it was air-printing, still on the second layer as far as I can tell. However it seems like the nozzle was causing some of the artifacts to form, like maybe it was hitting the first layer or something? I am not sure.

This is on a Bambu A1 mini, with Bambu matte filaments. It is on a brand-new 0.2 nozzle, first print just out of the package. And the reason I got the nozzle was that I had some maybe similar failures before, where my previous nozzle seemed like was showing signs of clogging - i tried some cold and hot pulls, I could do some prints but some where failing so I thought to take this part out of the equation.

Any ideas what maybe could have caused something like this? The filament? I had tried drying it a while ago i believe, I can try again and I got a brand new one as well, but I wouldn't believe so because the first layer seems pretty good at the beginning. Could the plate maybe being dirty have caused buildup of crap on the nozzle and lead to a failure? Could it be something I can try maybe with the Z axis (although I have no experience with this? I did another calibration now though). I had read about AMS tubes as potential reason, but not sure how to tell. Any ideas what to check?

For reference I am trying to print something similar to this in different colors. I have already done 4 prints in other colors successfully.

https://i.imgur.com/0gI7W3z.jpeg

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patientgamers·Patient GamersbyTrail

Is there something similar to the old Might and Magics?

I was especially fond of M&M 6 7 and 8 as a kid. I have also played the most recent, 10, which while different and flawed in many ways, was still good enough to be enjoyable. I have also liked things like Wizardry 8 in the past.

I did try to replay 7 recently, but I thought that it has not maybe aged too well as the combat was too grindy for my current tastes.

Can anyone recommend something similar perhaps?

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3dprinting·3DPrintingbyTrail

On multicolor printing, why does the prime tower have to be as high as the current layer?

Recently bought an A1 mini with AMS, which has been generally great. I have been printing various things, but was thinking if the wasted filament during color changes could be further reduced.

I was wondering, if the color change happens on a high layer, why does the prime tower need to be built as high in order to flush when the color change happens? Is it not a good idea to have the prime tower not generated up until the color change is needed, and then start building it on the plate directly?

This would imply z axis movement whenever the color changes, but is it bad for some reason? It would take slightly more time, but the filament change already takes plenty of time so I assume it is not a factor of the already printed model cooling or so. Could it be something like we want to avoid unnecessary Z axis movements to avoid alignment mistakes maybe with the current layer, if the z movement is not considered precise enough?

Or it is just considered that the aavings of building a shorter tower any not that much comparatively? Anyone more knowledgeable has any thoughts?

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