cross-posted from: https://lemmy.zip/post/66495215

I have a CM.700 airsoft sniper rifle replica that started slam-firing^[The CM.700 is a sniper rifle with a rotating bolt action. The bolt is rotated up, then pulled back. At the apex of the pull, the sear locks, making an audible click. Then the bolt is pushed forwards, chambering a BB, then rotated downwards to lock it and make the gun ready to fire. Slam-firing happens when the sear does not lock back at the end of the pull - releasing the bolt will make it slam back shut. Sometimes the bolt will stay in the pulled-back position, but even a slight disturbance will make it slam again. (Video on reddit showcasing the issue)] recently, likely due to a stripped sear. Is there anything that I could do about this, short of buying a specialised trigger box that costs as much as the gun itself?

I was thinking about making my own sear, but I took the trigger box apart in order to see what part could be the sear, and frankly I've still got no clue to this day. Despite taking apart quite a few airsoft guns before, this trigger mechanism is still a mystery to me.

I'm currently away so these images (1) (2) (3) are the best ones I have. The first one is the inside of the trigger box, sans the bar used to connect it to the bolt and outer barrel (it is positioned in between the two bars sticking out of the top of the box). The second image is of the bolt itself and the third image is of the assembled trigger box, showing three bars coming out of it (+ safety lever partially obscured by the bolt handle), and the outer barrel with the bolt inside. The bars sticking out of the trigger box slot into the holes in the outer barrel.

If it is the sear that's being the problem here, would it be possible to somehow mold it back into shape, or would I have to make an entirely new one? Again, I could buy an upgraded trigger box, but my financial situation currently prohibits that, so having a cheap fix would be really nice, even if it would be temporary.

I would greatly appreciate any help.

@[email protected]

Hi,

I'm following my post on Mastodon regarding the website france-airsoft.fr, how seem to not work anymore.

I didn't get any reaction on Mastodon, so I'm trying on Lemmy.

Do you have any ideas how I can contact the webmasters of that website?

If not, do you know where I could look for some French AirSoft community ? ( Not on the mainstream anti-social platform of course ! like Instagram, Facebook, Discord and so on, because all those crap are linear solution and I rather prefer something like a forum based on topic ! Like lemmy or whatever

Thanks.

I've been using this as a sidearm for a few years of playing. I mostly play outdoors, with the Glock useful for checking out buildings mostly if I have a longer primary setup.

It shoots quite accurately and the trigger pull is very crisp (better than a real stock Glock). There is a safety crossbutton on the trigger which I found annoying and ended up supergluing in the fire position.

This was a pretty cheap purchase. Currently these sell for about $60 and when I bought it, it was a little cheaper. For that price there are some downsides.

Since the magazine shares the grip with the CO2 bottle, it is a funky L-shape. This has prevented me from carrying spare magazines on the field as there isn't a seamless place for them on my gear. This leaves me with just one magazine of 11 rounds, so it really is a niche gun rather than something to play a whole game with. For me this isn't a problem, but for "serious" handgun players this magazine setup might not be great.

The Umarex Glock is slightly wider than a real Glock. I was very disappointed to discover this, as it does not fit into hard polymer holsters that are sized to tightly, securely hold Glocks. I've been using a Tactical Tailor MOLLE holster with a thumbsnap.

I know a lot of players who keep up in the newest hypebeast gear will poo-poo MOLLE holsters, but Tactical Tailor has always been a quality brand and even this simple holster is stiff and rugged, which is all it really needs to be.

I've fitted it on a USGI leg extender panel. Dropleg setups are compromises, though they are often entirely maligned by association with really bad dropleg setups. The leg extender allows the holster to drop low enough to get away from any torso gear and pulls the Umarex grip right when my hand is at rest. The weight is pretty minimal and sits on the hips, with the leg strap just a prevention to jostling.

Another downside of the Umarex is the lack of a built in place for a pistol lanyard. Normally when gearing up for the day, after I've put the CO2 bottle into the grip, I'll attach some 550 cord to the grip and secure it with electrical tape. Excess cord stuffed into the belt. It's a little bit of a sloppy solution, but if (when) I fall down an entire muddy slope I get to keep my pistol, so I'll take it.

For the price I have gotten value out of this. It has fired every time I've needed it to. The magazines are a limiting factor for anyone wanting to run a pistol more offensively.

Considering getting an airsoft membership for around $500/yr and plan on going like once a week. It's like hella steep and the cheapest outdoor place around me but I wanna know how much I'm getting fucked compared to others around here.

How much are you guys paying to play?

Main questions

• How often/rare it is for a burst disc to blow under rated pressure?
• Is there a way to decrease the likelihood of them falsely triggering?
• How loud when it happens and how can I dampen it to be under safe hearing level?

Context

I'm planning an upgrade path to make my replica as quiet as possible. Not sniper p***y. Only for the safety of my hearing. My current AEG is built for backyard target shooting but still fail miserably, low accuracy, low power, loud AF (need earpro). It shoots 2.4 Joule and less than 1 m/s deviation. I'm told by a shop owner that I already reached the limit of AEG.

I want something that can lift heavier BBs without also blasting my eardrum in the process, and a 'fun-gun' that I can hose down juice cans with whole mag of tracer BBs. That's why I think about going HPA. I don't really mind the tank, the line, or limitation of semi on pure mechanical engine... EXCEPT the burst disc concern in contrast to battery fire where I can just yeet the gun real far and dump water on it. I know that these things are very safe but I have seen some comments about them randomly bursting - which, if it's louder than safe hearing level (have seen a video of 3000 psi scuba tank literally jumped off the floor when it bursted) then it will totally negate the benefit of going HPA for me. There is an option of filling the tank below 1.8 k to minimize the risk but that also means fewer shots per fill.

Alternatively I can get a TAC-41 for long range fun and another AEG with airbrake for dumb full-auto gun. But I don't want to maintain two of them and I'm sure people here know what comes with teching an AEG. This won't be as quiet as HPA system on same energy output either :(

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Would love some opinion on this. Am I being paranoid?

Either go through the door or don't. You are actually worse than useless by indecisively standing in it.

Couldn't you have dyed them?

Absolutely. More work though and I wasn't feeling it today.

Doesn't spraypaint make the cloth stiffer?

Sure does. For something like a uniform or even a vest I wouldn't spray, or at least only do some conservative lines, but dying is definitely the way for that stuff. For small pouches, it doesn't really matter.

Won't the paint eventually flake off.

Yup. Especially anywhere along a corner. The goal here was expedient camo rather than high art. Eventual small flaking won't destroy the overall effect, especially as the pouches wear and those exposed bits get tinted by dirt.

Why not use [color]?

Used what I had, I'm not buying more spray paint just for this.

Something I see a lot at fields are people attaching MOLLE pouches like the post image. Running the straps just through the top and bottom loop of the vest/chest rig/LBE, and snapping them closed.

This creates a lot of potential for pounces to sag and shift around while you're moving. Pull mags out can be harder as the pouch sometimes wants to come up with it. Generally just not ideal. You shouldn't be able to fit your hand between the pouch and the vest.

The better way is to weave the vertical straps back and forth between the MOLLE ladder segments on the pouch and vest, getting as many points of contact as possible. This can be a little difficult sometimes with especially stiff straps, but a simple use of needle nose pliers can make even that a breeze.

Properly run MOLLE will look like:

No big gaps. The pouch and vest will act like a single item rather than a loose, shifting or hanging pouch pulling off of the vest.

I went out and had a good day on the field yesterday, but I ended up having to help a few people between games which inspired this post.

The first piece of the puzzle is to double check everything you're bringing onto the field is proper setup before you head out. Basics like all the screws for your optics and accessories are tightened down (it's ok to use loctite too), any gun furniture you've swapped is tight, and just a general look around.

The main idea here though is to have a set aside pouch or bag with some basic tools. SAE Allen keys, metric Allen keys, a couple of screwdrivers, flashlight, electrical tape, zipties, and small side cutters (to cut the zipties flush) can fix a number of gear problems quickly. Add in a roll of 550 cord, lighter, and a way to cut the cord, and issues like soft gear needing adjustments can usually be band-aid fixed.

Nobody wants to have a whole day ruined by wobbly gear, and it's better to have the tools with you than having to rely on finding somebody with them.

Source.

Inspired by ![email protected] 's post yesterday some pics from a playtest. I was on an event and had British Army inspired set with a webbing, some MTP and some multicam clothing. I take the webbing and a backpack over my chest rig or plate carrier, when I want to sustain myself for a longer period (24h/48h matches). It wasn't necessary on that particular event, so I switched later on.

Gear is basically:

• Begadi M4 Nova (Daniel Defence MK18) AEG
• CYMA CM.131A S-AEG
• MTP Webbing
• MTP Fieldjacket
• Clawgear Raider MK.IV pant
• German army boots (Haix Scout)
• UF Pro Boonie
• Earmor Coms
• Savotta Kahaka 15L Backpack

Not in the picture are my many MTP trousers and combat shirts and Gore Tex. Also missing is my Linderhof chest rig and my Helikon Tex guardian plate carrier: all in MTP and multicam.

I'm planing on adding a springer and a AAP-01 GBB pistol this year.

Let's see what kind of gear people like running!

Pic is me from last year at the DE, budget Well MB03 (that I've upgraded a little since), M9 GBB as a sidearm - all woodland. The group of friends I run with do a bit of reenacting, we go for 2000s era US Army gear.

I also have an AEG M4 now, I'll probably take that with me on one of the days this year.

I like Airsoft. It's a great hobby for staying active and having tactical fun with friends. Why are there no users here yet? I'm also totally new to PieFed. Is this the right way to do things? :)

Hi all

I'm new to this hobby, my brother took me to his local site over Christmas and I had a great time.

I really enjoyed running around the woods shooting bbs at each other.

Turns out there are like 5 sites within easy drive of where I live so I've signed up to rent some gear and have a go at one of them this weekend.

I'm a little nervous as I've not managed to find anyone to come with me but I'm hoping I can find a few people to stick with on the day.

Hopefully it will be fun, I'm excited to give it another go. I'm trying really hard not to spend loads of money on gear before I know there's a good site or two I can play at.

Any tips for scoping out new sites, or for new players in general? I'm based in the UK if that makes any difference.