If you're worried about people slipping you really gotta reinforce that handrail first my friend. That's nowhere near strong enough to hold up when someone is putting all their weight on it

If slipping is a concern, you should also put up a better railing.

The building codes in most places would require balusters or otherwise closed in sides on a ramp like this. If someone does slip, they can go under the rail and off of the porch/ramp.

Also, the vertical supports for the hand railing seem insufficient. Supports for railing are generally 4x4, connected with bolts, and there would be a couple of more of them on the long run. A 200lb+ person falling has more than enough force to snap some screws through a 2x4.

Grip tape? There's a ton online you could order, or hit up your local hardware store. May kinds are designed for outdoor ramp/stair use.

Eg. https://a.co/d/h6KUG1O

I've seen quite a few people use roof shingles nailed down to the ramp with a good amount of success.

Unlike the mats, wood strips, and a few other solutions they aren't difficult to get a wheel chair up and don't catch on peoples shoes. As long as they're flush with the ramp of course.

No clue how expensive that'd be, but it might be a good idea to ask a roofer if they'd be willing to sell some scrap if available.

Heated de-icing system would be ideal. Can’t be slippery if it’s warm.

Had one like this and way longer so it was hard to find a solution. We ended up using sand and clear UV resistant polyurethane as a grip surface. You can either mix them together and apply with a roller, or brush on poly and sprinkle on sand like you're salting a roast. We did the later and it's lasted for years

What I see church and other institutions do around here (Montreal) is put some temp roof things above it for winter. Here's the typical car version https://www.rona.ca/fr/produit/shelterlogic-abri-autoshelter-a-toit-arrondi-10-x-20-pi-62684-330736923

But they have some for side walks. It might be expensive but it can be reused every years and you never need to shovel snow or ice.

If it's typically clear, grip tape would be best. If you expect snow to hang around, you might want to add furring straps. You'd want them to be fairly short, though, to make sure they aren't a tripping hazard

There is a special powder (look up slip resistant additives) that you can mix with paint to create a surface with a lot of traction.

Mix grit into deck paint and lay it on thick.

I'm going to echo the heating idea.

We get a fair amount of ice here, and I used to be in home health, so I've dealt with ramps.

Overall, the only thing that really works is preventing the ice to begin with. De-icing always comes with issues. You get re-freezes, wood warping, there's the mess from salt and/or sand. Traction additions only work after the ice is gone, and makes getting rid of it harder (same with snow in that regard).

There's multiple types of heating gear that I've seen done up for this. The neatest was done up with the stuff that's used on pipes, attached to a canvas roll. Roll it out before an expected ice/snow, and it prevents build-up, then you roll it up after and the ramp is perfect. But there's heating coils and such that can be placed permanently.

It really is the safest and most effective option. Iirc, about ten years ago it only cost about a hundred and some sweat to get done. Not sure of pricing nowadays, but it's an afternoon job.

ITT: people trying to help, without reading the post

Grit tape between the slats you plan to add. If it's just for winter (??) then you don't need it to last too long.

My two ways to go about it would be:

1. the mentioned rubber mats and a roof so they don't snow over
2. a metal grating with enough of a offset of the ground/ramp that snow can fall through/get pushed through and be periodically removed from below the grates. (Maybe remove the planks and replace them with gratings.)

Hope this helpes.

I think non-slip rubber mat with grooves was the right idea, this is what is used in ski resorts.

However they are usually installed on top of grids that let the snow and ice pass through the grooves.

is this ramp used by somone in a wheelchar if not i would thin the easyest soulution is to just take some wood and screw it in along the ramp to make "steps"

The best technique is not to modify the ramp but get people to use spikes on their shoes. The ramp will almost always be icy/snowy during winter and it will be difficult to stop this or remove ice without damaging the wood.

I have something like this. I got mine at Costco (check now, it's seasonal): https://www.amazon.com/Yaktrax-Spikes-Walking-Large-X-Large/dp/B01IB76JTY/ref=sr_1_23?keywords=shoe%2Bspikes%2Bfor%2Bwinter&qid=1699053381&sr=8-23&th=1

And if people use this you probably want something on that wood to protect it from the spikes. I suggest this or similar: https://www.amazon.com/ZGR-Outdoor-Profile-Entryway-Non-Slip/dp/B08N5WFJ1Z/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=outdoor+runners&qid=1699053563&sr=8-6
A runner like this also allows whoever maintains the ramp to "shake off" snow and thin ice.

No perfect solution, IMHO. But I think this would work best. This will also help those people wherever they walk.

Could you not just make a roof? Wouldn't have to be anything crazy, just a tarp over a simple frame, otherwise if you don't mind spending a bit of cash, there's these heated ramp mats

Maybe a roll of adhesive nonslip tread tape?

Check out a product (or products like it) called “handi tread”

Cleats, because if that's slick enough to endanger an older person, then they should probably be wearing them on the sidewalks too.

Expanded metal, Shingles, granulated ice guard for roofs are not super expensive options.

https://www.amazon.com/Grip-Tape-Waterproof-Traction-Staircases/dp/B08F7DKTD4/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_maf_3?keywords=non+slip+for+ramp&qid=1699050709&sr=8-1

Something like this? We have it on our steps. Just the first link that popped up, I don't know anything about that particular brand or seller.

Would adding "studs" be possible?

Screw a shit ton of short weatherproof decking screws into the wood but leave them slightly raised instead of countersunk.

Might make it pretty difficult to shovel snow off though.