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3dprinting·3DPrintingbypoofy_cat

I designed a filament dryer mount for my tukkari mk4 enclosure

My SUNLU S1 Plus filament dryer was slipping around getting yanked forward on my TUKKARI TLX MK4 enclosure, so I designed this mount which fits into the existing slots on top of the enclosure. Prints in two pieces that screw together since otherwise the supports would be complicated. Had to print the larger piece on my big bed printer (artillery sw x2). I'm using up the last of my prusament galaxy black pla.

https://www.printables.com/model/871193-tukkari-tlx-prusa-mk3mk4-enclosure-sunlu-s1-plus-f

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electricvehicles·electric vehiclesbypoofy_cat

My first EV: 2023 VW ID.4 Pro AWD

After my 31 year old subaru was showing signs of failing, I decided to look into EVs as a possible replacement. Today I bought a VW ID.4 Pro AWD to replace it, my first vehicle purchase ever (subie was a hand-me-down). It's a bit large for my usual tastes, but it has an amazing turn radius, good visibility, it's comfortable, and it drives great. I considered the Bolt EUV, but the DC fast charging would take twice as long and there was no AWD option... so I somehow talked myself into spending $15k more for this thing.

In Colorado there are a good number of rebates/credits going right now so I got a decent deal on it: -3k negotiating with dealer, -1k VW website offer, -6k vehicle exchange rebate (state's cash for clunkers, applied at sale), -5.5k energy utility rebate (from Xcel, applied at sale), and possibly -7.5k for the fed non-refundable tax credit (will be received as tax refund next year) depending on my federal taxes. Also got a promotional 3.9% interest rate from the manufacturer.

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3dprinting·3DPrintingbypoofy_cat

Finished building the MK4 kit and placed it in the enclosure, first few prints have been great.

After a few hickups I finished building my MK4 kit and Tukkari enclosure. The first few prints have been fantastic.

My MK4 kit had a couple bad bearings, so I replaced all the bearings and rods on the X and Y axes with MISUMI equivalents. I noticed that they have a fair bit less slop in the movement and are overall quieter.

I also made a custom G10+steel print sheet, and it's working exceptionally well with PETG. It sticks strongly while hot, and doesn't release until the bed drops below about 40 deg C at which point parts pop off easily. It leaves a super gloss surface on the first layer as well. If anyone is interested in building one, here are the parts I used:

(253.8x241mm steel sheet) https://www.aliexpress.us/item/2251832760691866.html

(white 250x240x1mm g10 sheet) https://www.aliexpress.us/item/2255801004367032.html

I bonded them together with 3M 200MP double-stick tape (which is thin, strong, and heat-resistant) and filed notches in the g10 to match the sheet. I didn't abrade the G10, PETG sticks perfectly while glossy. I was very careful about cleaning it with iso. alcohol before printing, and I wipe it again every print or two.

The filament dryer is a Sunlu S1 Plus, which has a built-in fan to circulate air for better drying. I printed this guide and used a PC4-M10 fitting and 4mm OD teflon tube with it to reduce friction into the enclosure:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5234489

I'm quite happy with the setup. It is a little noisier in the enclosure than just on the table due to the melamine particle board panel vibrating while suspended on its plastic feet. I'll set it on foam and/or a paver eventually to improve this.

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3dprinting·3D Printingbypoofy_cat

Why am I getting these bumps and whiskers on my CR-10S Pro V2 prints?

cross-posted from: https://lemm.ee/post/600079

I've been repairing a Creality CR-10S Pro V2 and can't figure out this persistent oddity. It prints spiral vases and benchies flawlessly, but regular 3D prints often have these pronounced bumps and thick whiskers sticking out. I think it's more than just Z seam blobs, I'm wondering if it's an issue with the wipe settings not working well in PrusaSlicer...

Here's another example of the issue: https://i.imgur.com/ZHssQWI.jpg

I'm using Kaaber transparent PETG, printing at 215/210 nozzle and 75 bed. I know this seems cool for PETG, but this brand tends to melt and ooze at anything hotter.

Here are my PrusaSlicer retraction settings, they are the default for this printer:

https://i.imgur.com/RqrltUL.jpg

I tried slightly bumping the retraction to 6.5mm and 65mm/s, but it made no difference.

Any ideas what would cause this? I'm getting it while trying to print many parts of the honeycomb storage wall off printables.

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3dprinting·3DPrintingbypoofy_cat

Why am I getting these bumps and whiskers on my CR-10S Pro V2 prints?

I've been repairing a Creality CR-10S Pro V2 and can't figure out this persistent oddity. It prints spiral vases and benchies flawlessly, but regular 3D prints often have these pronounced bumps and thick whiskers sticking out. I think it's more than just Z seam blobs, I'm wondering if it's an issue with the wipe settings not working well in PrusaSlicer...

Here's another example of the issue: https://i.imgur.com/ZHssQWI.jpg

I'm using Kaaber transparent PETG, printing at 215/210 nozzle and 75 bed. I know this seems cool for PETG, but this brand tends to melt and ooze at anything hotter.

Here are my PrusaSlicer retraction settings, they are the default for this printer:

https://i.imgur.com/RqrltUL.jpg

I tried slightly bumping the retraction to 6.5mm and 65mm/s, but it made no difference.

Any ideas what would cause this? I'm getting it while trying to print many parts of the honeycomb storage wall off printables.

View original on lemm.ee

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