solved by redoing some preferences, not sure which one made the difference, I changed from new back to active and all the posts came back.. then changed back to new, and all the posts are still there..

onwards!

I wonder if green lights attract less bugs too?

google says: "The study showed that 22% of bugs were attracted to the blue spectrum, while 18% were attracted to white, 10% to yellow, 2% to red and 4.7% to green."

"green light attracts the most fish"

"results found that the green light was the most attractive to mosquitoes. There was 43.3% of all the insects collected in the green light trap. The blue light attracted 31.8%, and only 24.9% went for the incandescent traps."

PSA, for people interested in using LiIon in the SC53c N. (corrections and additional info welcome):

Zebralight deleted LVP from the driver, to make room for more mode groups, and officially the light is not LiIon compatible.

USB Rechargeable Protected 14500 LiIon from Lumintop, fit and work in SC53c N.

Some people use Unprotected LiIon, responsibly. Their brain is the LVP.. They monitor battery voltage, and recharge before the battery gets too low.

When going from 14500 LiIon, back to AA, remove the LiIon and Press the Switch for a moment, while the light has no battery inside, before inserting the AA battery.

This resets the battery meter so it works w AA Voltage after using LiIon..

congrats, looks awesome, thanks for the great photos!

https://i.imgur.com/ptnNr2o.png

green works better than red for reading, no doubt...

green works better than red for seeing anything: trees, trails, animals, maps, compass...

there are trade offs...

green attracts more mosquitoes than red

green interferes with sleep hormones, red does not

the argument that green can be dimmer than red is true, but green is not politically correct for group stargazing, Red is Required

This version of the Eagletac D25 has a black clip, deeper carry than the Tool AA. You can have someone like @ArtieT59 change the LED for you.

https://www.amazon.com/EagleTac-D25A-Flashlight-Rechargeable-Lithium-ion/dp/B07JQJT172/

M150, SC64, L16, Wizzard

Congrats!

Suprised to see the label says Red Bronze..

Chinese use the same root word, tóng, for Brass, Bronze, and Copper, as they are all different colors of Copper or Copper Alloys.

Usually what we call Copper is what they call Red Copper, and what we call Brass they call Yellow Copper.. but I dont know why they labeled it Bronze.. Initially the Brass TS10 was called Copper.. so there is some confusion in translation..

notice these are all tóng:

copper: Tóng

red copper: Zǐtóng

bronze: Qīngtóng

red bronze: Hóng gǔtóngsè

brass: Huáng tóng

yellow copper: Huáng tóng

now my question is.. is the TS10 actually Pure Copper (I want to believe that), or is it an alloy w tin, aka bronze (I dont think so but needs confirmation).

undefined> What if it turns itself on while stored in a backpack?

you are asking the right question

the answer is, do not store in your backpack until you use a strategy to eliminate accidental discharge

on some lights, if the threads are anodised, not shiny bare metal, we can break the circuit by unscrewing the head or tail. So the button will not turn the light on.

to find out if that works with your light, turn it on, and then unscrew either end about 1/4 turn.. If the light turns off and the button does not turn it on, you can now store your light in your backpack safely..

Has your 4 been updated

no, they now say the update will be June 30

are the difference you are seeing closer to acceptable?

I do not recommend Opple 4 at this time.

I only use my Opple 3

congrats on your mods, thanks for the great photos,

this one made me smile.. you nailed it ;-)

undefined> my temp is set to 355°C

thanks for sharing that info ;-)

your blobs look so round and shiny.. beautiful work

I’m ok with testing its limits

Im appreciating learning from your experience Thanks for sharing info

I respect that youre taking precautions. I think your idea to use water cooling could work well ;-)

congratulations looks very nice, thanks for the pics

Thank you very much! With your new chart, you have succeeded in adding all the features I used to use the manual for.

thanks for following up ;-)

No, I do not yet know the correct command line syntax

I would welcome any help.. here is the backstory:

I bought Hank’s programmer and am trying to learn how to ping the D2…

I dont have an Android phone, and cannot use avrdude on my iMac. I use pymcuprog and issue commands through Terminal in my iMac, to reflash Anduril on my Wurkkos TS10 successfuly.

when I use the gchart programmers for my TS10, I use this command line, that works very well:

pymcuprog ping -t uart -u /dev/tty.wchusbserial1430 -d attiny1616

Im trying to figure out what command line to use for the Emisar D2? 
I think it uses a 1634 chip? I believe I need this info to edit the command line where it says attiny1616. Is that true, or does the D2 use attiny1616?

when I plug the Hank programmer into my iMac, with the pogo pins connected to the head of my D2, and I run this command in Terminal:

**
ls /dev/{tty,cu}.***

the response is

**
tty.Bluetooth-Incoming-Port**

I believe I need that info to tell pymcuprog to use the Hank programmer..

so I took a couple of guesses and modified the command line to ping the D2 like this:

pymcuprog ping -t uart -u /dev/tty.Bluetooth-Incoming-Port -d attiny1634

but that command line does not work in Terminal (yet), I get this response in Terminal:

Unable to setup stack for device attiny1634
Currently supported devices (in ‘devices’ folder):
atmega1608, atmega1609, atmega3208, atmega3209, atmega328p, atmega4808, atmega4809, atmega808, atmega809, atsamd21e18a, atsamd21g18a, attiny1604, attiny1606, attiny1607, attiny1614, attiny1616, attiny1617, attiny1624, attiny1626, attiny1627, attiny202, attiny204, attiny212, attiny214, attiny3216, attiny3217, attiny3224, attiny3226, attiny3227, attiny402, attiny404, attiny406, attiny412, attiny414, attiny416, attiny417, attiny424, attiny426, attiny427, attiny804, attiny806, attiny807, attiny814, attiny816, attiny817, attiny824, attiny826, attiny827, attiny84a, avr128da28, avr128da32, avr128da48, avr128da64, avr128db28, avr128db32, avr128db48, avr128db64, avr16dd14, avr16dd20, avr16dd28, avr16dd32, avr16ea28, avr16ea32, avr16ea48, avr32da28, avr32da32, avr32da48, avr32db28, avr32db32, avr32db48, avr32dd14, avr32dd20, avr32dd28, avr32dd32, avr32ea28, avr32ea32, avr32ea48, avr64da28, avr64da32, avr64da48, avr64da64, avr64db28, avr64db32, avr64db48, avr64db64, avr64dd14, avr64dd20, avr64dd28, avr64dd32, avr64ea28, avr64ea32, avr64ea48, avr8ea28, avr8ea32, pic16f15244, pic16f15276, pic16f15376, pic16f17146, pic16f1768, pic16f1769, pic16f1779, pic16f18146, pic16f18446, pic16f18456, pic16lf18456, pic18f16q40, pic18f16q41, pic18f47k40, pic18f47k42, pic18f47q10, pic18f47q43, pic18f57q43, pic18f57q84, pic24fj128ga705, pic24fj64gu205, uc3a3256

(apparently my pymcuprog install does not include attiny1634)

Do you have any suggestions what the correct command line would be, to ping my Emisar D2?

Once I get that sorted, I will have the Option to also reflash to newer firmware, but that is not my priority. I just want to backup my existing firmware with my eeprom settings.

I dont really want to update to newer D2 firmware, that uses 3C for channel switching. I can switch channels on my D2 using 3H, and I like it that way.

It means I dont have to relearn a different command for my D2, when I want to switch from smooth to stepped ramping. This keeps 3C consistent with my other Anduril lights.

undefined> maybe it’s just trying to get me to go outside

LOL! I resemble that remark ;-)

Adair21> go to town with the hot air

Thanks! I needed that little push of encouragement... really appreciate your input.. Will post results after I take the leap.

undefined> these lights are a ‘red’ variant of bronze?

imo, No

I do not believe the copper TS10 is red bronze. I think the label on the box is an error in translation.

imo the copper TS10 is pure copper, not bronze and not brass.

however, I have not tried to get confirmation about the Copper in the TS10 from Wurkkos. Im not sure I would believe their answer (unless it was the answer I want to hear), since there seems to be a language barrier.

looks great, thanks for sharing your mods

for future reference, I buy sapphire lenses for under $10 here.. Considerably less expensive than the Esslinger options.