So i have these Rode Wireless Microphones at Work that you connect to your phone with a USB-C cable. Thing is the cable they ship with is absolute trash and breaks after about 3 uses. So i got the idea to try and build a 3d printed thingie with a protruding usb-c port that you could slide onto your phone sort of like the old iphone music docks. Then on the back you could slide in the rode receiver, thus eliminating any cable twisting. I thought this would be easiest if i had the pictured usb-c breakouts, because they have mounting holes that i could fix firmly into the 3d printed part. I picked a 24 pin version thinking this would cover all the necessary usb-c specs to get at least something like a usb 3.0 connection as I don't think the rode mics need super high data transfer or power delivery above 5v. Alas the pictured "cable" didn't do the trick and the mic wasn't recognized by the phone. So I'm wondering would it even be possible to build something like this with breakouts or am I missing things. Do usb-c cables usually have chips that negotiate voltage and transfer specs between devices? Am i missing shielding, or is my wire gauge totally off?

I can probably still build a mic holder thingy using a short premade silicone cable, but I'm still curious if this setup could work in theory or if there are other breakouts that could make this work.

Thanks for your help!

I'm trying to do my very first table top out of hardwood but it proving to be quite the learning curve. I acquired a small benchtop jointer and a lunchbox type thickness planer and I've more or less successfully made my boards. What I'm struggling with now is getting a nice glue up without gaps. My first try turned out so so, and i was afraid i didn't use enough glue so I re ripped the joints with my tracksaw. I think my boards are evenly thick but they seem a bit hourglass shaped if that makes sense. They'reb about 170cm long and they join up on the ends, but there's about a 1mm gap towards the middle on some joints and its too much to squeeze all the gaps together on the panel. I first tried jointing on the benchtop jointer but got horrible results with the small bed. (Could also be lack of skill as this is all new to me). I then went with a tracksaw and parallel guides instead,which is better but still giving me a bit of a gap. So I guess im asking how more experienced woodworkers would proceed.

Would it help to glue up two boards at a time so there's maybe enough strength in the clamps to squeeze the gap shut. Or should i rip the bigger boards down so they all fit upright in the thickness planer and try to get two really parallel sides that way? I have rollers to extend the beds of both the thicknesser and the jointer but have had better results with the thicknesses. Is there something else I'm not thinking of?