My heavily modified version of the Explorer RxCT. This current iteration is almost complete, some additional custom keys for the thumb cluster on the way right now and not 100% sold on the current key I've got on here. Thumb cluster angle is adjustable and keys can be swapped for either choc or mx.

Also another iteration on the base plate with modified 1/4" mounting point for better balance is in the works.

You could try out QMKs swap hands feature. I've not tried using myself but have considered doing so for this use case exactly.

First keywell keyboard. Previously was using a custom flat pcb build:

Not too bad a learning curve transitioning from that. About a day maybe two to get up to previous typing speed but I'm also experimenting with some layout changes now. Thumb cluster was immediately so much more comfortable.

This is the correct peripheral to keep between your splits.

I had considered adding integrated wrist rests but I rest my elbows on armrests and it hasn't really been any issue.

I'll be posting with more details on the board once I've consider it finished but happy to share here as well.

As far as modifications I made:

• adjusted stagger of each column
• adjusted splay on the pinky columns
• used flexible pcbs (from the BigSkree)
• made the switch plate one piece per side (orig was individual columns)
• added side walls to the switch plate
• added additional support to the thumb cluster so it has less wobble
• one piece, 6 key thumb cluster
• support for both choc and mx switches on thumb cluster
• added ARRI locating holes to the 1/4" mounting point

Lot of my modifications make the board less configurable but provide an easier and sturdier build. Making this a 5 column build would not be difficult. The original is 5 columns by default and 6 with an extension plate. Modified version is all one piece but modifying the CAD to chop off a column would be no problem.

Currently the thumb cluster has a mix of DES profile caps on MX switches and CS profile caps on choc switches.

Aside from the 3D printed parts build just uses some heat press inserts and screws.

I'll be happy to share the modified files once I've got everything finalized and organized, hopefully that will be later this week.

The flexible pcbs look great, very interested for the next build. Also potentially interested in the "pad" mcu you are working on there.

You're welcome, like I said was easy enough to chop off a column.

I'm in more less the same boat as far as printing goes. Either MJF or SLS will be fine. This iteration as MJF previous was SLS. MJF is a little nicer imo. Smoother surface finish and it can be dyed black. SLS is a little cheaper though. I used jlcpcb and didn't ask them to do anything special.

Yes sunsets are definitely my favorites as far as chocs go. Currently using a mostly Mx board but a few of the thumb switches are sunset chocs.

If I had to nit pick they are a little scratchy and having the tactile feel closer to the actual switch activation would be nice. But it's not like there is the wealth of options that exist on the mx side.

When I build another I'd love to give flexible pcbs a try. What are the matrix dimensions of your PCBs? Thinking I might try a 4x6 layout next build.

For now there is no way I'm reopening this thing again unless I really need too. I have a new respect for all the hand wired builds out there. I wouldn't say they build was tough exactly but it was tedious.

I'm transitioning from a flat split keyboard already so the difference isn't really that great and it didn't take long. In general though I've found the best way to learn new layouts is to just jump in and start using it. Practice practice practice. Oh and skip the labeled keys, they will only hurt your learning speed.

Previous board:

Wow that could actually be really sick. I kinda worry that it would end up being a mediocre mouse and suffer as a keyboard as a result but even still...

Yeah personally I was never able to fully get used to home row mods. Even after a fair bit of tuning I found that invariably home row mods would start to get in the way of typing speed around the ~60wpm mark. People are always so quick to recommend home row mods as the ultimate solution to finger movement that I tried to stick with it for a fair while but finally switched to dedicated keys for mods and couldn't be happier (plus I finally smashed the 60wpm barrier).

Personally I have shift on both thumb clusters and alt-cmd-ctrl on the left most column of my left split (3x6 layout), the keys that used to be there were moved to combos to make space (ESC is two left most keys middle row, TAB is two left most keys of top row). I've got some of the mods duplicated elsewhere on other layers as well just depending on the use case. Also not using home row mods means you can (probably) use auto shift as well which can potentially eliminate the need for a fully dedicated shift key.

Thanks! I actually had Shrimp silents on here previously and I prefer them to the U4's. I'm giving these a chance but I think I'll be swapping these U4s back out for the shrimps unless I end up with something else. I'll have to look at the TTC's.

Keywell keyboards will give you less, and more natural finger travel compared to a flat board. Though with only 3 rows the difference isn't really all that much compared to a flat board with good sculpted keys. It's a much bigger deal once you go larger than 3 rows.

For me the major motivation to try out this style of board was the curved thumb cluster. At least in my opinion most thumb clusters you see are pretty terrible from an ergonomics perspective. Even when you get one that doesn't encourage curling your thumb under your fingers a flat arc doesn't really correspond with the thumbs most natural movement. I find curved arc of this thumb cluster more natural and allows for more keys to be comfortably arranged than would otherwise be possible.

There are not nearly as many options for choc keys, particularly if you are mainly interested in ascetics. You can can get dyed mbk caps, off the top of my head I know Clickety Split has them. I'm sure you can find similar for different regions as well.

There is also Asymplex for both a variety of solid color CS profile as well as the occasional batch of artisan keycaps made. Also solid color DES caps with choc stems.

Yes I will share on this sub. Since you are interested though you are welcome take a look at my github early. Added a 3x5 version of the case there as well (not tested printing).

Hand-wiring shouldn't be much more difficult than my first build with per key pcbs. It is pretty thin though and assembly will be a bit tricky regardless of how it's wired. For printing I've only tried with MJF and SLS and I didn't really take into consideration any limitations of Resin or FDM printing. I don't think there is anything that would make printing any of the parts with those techniques (though maybe some parts are a little thin for FDM) so keep that in mind.

Ulnar deviation is the main ergonomic issue that split keyboards address. You can eliminate this by rotating your splits away from each other so that you don't have any bend in your wrist. Shoulder position doesn't really change much no matter where you position things, only the muscles that are engaged change much and it's actually more work to spread your arms than it is having them point inwards. How common tasks are there that involve working with our hands at shoulder width?

Yeah I've never actually tried non-sculpted caps on a keywell so I'm really just guessing on the difference. I started with sculpted caps on my moonlander and never really touched non sculpted caps since.

The switches as U4 silent tactiles, not the U4t. I'm getting more used to them after a couple days of typing but they still feel a bit scratchy and abrupt. Also some of the keys have a bit of ping to them. Some of this might be due to my swapping the springs with 45g ones. More than the feel though, which again I'm growing more used to (and maybe is improving as they break in), they aren't all that silent. The silent squids which I had on here before by comparison where dead quiet; they just felt a tad mushy. I think I'd rather have true silence with a little bit of mush or just go with non-silent tactiles (like T1 Sunflower's on previous build) with superior tactile feel.

I feel like you didn't actually read what I wrote... If you were going to mix some cake batter where would you position the bowl/spoon. Naturally you are going to work with it more less centered on your body. Sewing, widdling, tool usage ect... It's not about your shoulders is Ulnar deviation. Why do you think we consider boards like the miryoku or alice style boards as ergomech if they are not shoulder width spaced?