The frog wouldn't stop croaking.

Doyle has learned how to open the woven box my spouse uses to hide hit cat toys.

My youngest wanted to make dice as a yule gift. We got the dual effect by using geode inserts for the clear with red swirls and then filled the opening with a translucent light blue.

This was then cast in a clear shell and the numbers done in silver.

I'm no dummy. I made them do all the painting, sanding, and polishing.

Rule #1. PPE. Every time. Always. Even if you're just moving the chemicals, you're touching them and need PPE.

I was reorganizing my resin dyes and one of the bottles (Ultramarine Blue) had cracked on a seam due to age.

This picture is after multiple attempts at cleaning it off. Thankfully, it was just dye and not something worse.

Made these for a friend. I've already been asked for two more sets.

"This is What The Fox Sounds Like"

Technically, these are the second set I've done like this. I forgot to take pictures of the first set due to a time crunch.

To make these, I fill my blank insert molds about halfway with clear resin. I then fill them as much as possible with cherry wood curls/shavings. I let them sit a few minutes before topping off with more resin and try to cram some more wood into the mold.

I had attempted this with redwood shavings, but lighter woods are almost transparent once the resin goes into the pressure pot.

I had offered glittery red, but they passed on it.

Just pulled these out of the pot and awaiting full cure before I can polish.

I am thinking of doing glittery red high values.

She owns all unpaired socks and will fight me for them.

So I found a decent work-around for cure inhibition. SiliNOT! is a reusable silicone substitute for mold making.

It melts at temperatures above 130°F (54°C), but they suggest not going above 150°F (65.5°C), as the material breaks down at 180°F (82°C). It can also be thinned with a small amount of water for detailed parts (I add water as it begins to melt and stir in as it melts further).

While it is only good for 1-2 pulls, the material is re-meltable to re-cast as needed. I use it for recently printed SLA masters, as I am too impatient to wait for photoinitiators to "burn off" and waste way too much silicone.

My 18yo cat claimed the last of the laundry. Guess I'll just fold it after my work shift.

My spouse thinks Ruby looks like a meme template.

I've been making "stained glass" dice ever since I got blank inserts for my molds. The trick is to leave some panels clear so untinted light can show through.

This time I'm using some inserts from Druid Dice that have geometric patterns in them. I've painted the lines in silver and am using sharpie markers for the tiny panels.

I have found that, while it rarely happens, it is good to clear-coat these inserts to prevent any excess ink from coming off in the molds.

I will likely use a pearlescent white for the numbers, though may go for sage green if the white isn't readable.

On Reddit, I would bang on about under-coating numbers on clear or translucent dice to prevent "color bleed". This set was designed to use the effect in a positive way.

I cast a clear set of dice and first painted the numbers in ROYGBIV, starting with the d4. I then painter over all the colors with gold. I have polished the set to a matte finish to increase the effect.

Here is a close-up on the d6 to better show what's going on.

This will still darken a clear die, even if you use a bright silver or white, as it stops light from coming through those areas. I do find it preferable to color bleed, however.

Sadly it is just barely larger than my normal d6 insert.

These were donated for a Child's Play auction.

To get the effect, start with an opaque blank insert (I find black works best). Have at hand a disposable spoon and a smal, sealable container with some dish soap and water you can agitate to make tons of bubbles.

Using an aplicator (I use a flat silicone brush), apply a very thin layer of UV resin. Use the spoon to scoop the soap bubbles onto the resin-coated surface. Quickly put it under a UV light to cure the resin. I clean any overspill with a craft blade to keep it neat.

Once all facets are done, brush the mica powder of your choice onto all the surfaces and cast in clear resin.