@bdonvr you've probably heard this before...... But magnetic PEI build plate is the best adhesion I've had.
Used glass on my CR10S but it's night and day vs PEI on the ender 3 S1 plus.
Keeping it clean is key but copious quantity of IPA and a very light sand has worked so far.

@CaptainFlintlockFinn are those resin support marks? If so you could try reorienting your model to reduce the number of supports needed. Possibly experimenting with the number, spacing and thickness may get better results. I'm no expert but have found it helps sometimes.

@Krauerking you could look at calibrating the hygrometers or at least the offset.
https://www.stevejenkins.com/blog/2014/06/how-to-calibrate-a-hygrometer-humidity-sensor-using-the-salt-test/
Two point calibration with calcium chloride and sodium chloride might be even more accurate

@Krauerking ah but you can measure the offset. A two point calibration should cover your measurement range. Not ideal but you could get a reading.

@LazaroFilm glad I didn't bother learning this then...

@slug @Krauerking there are some out there. Can't say I looked to closely but I wasn't terribly impressed.

@Imgonnatrythis @cm0002 octoprint has a useful Telegram plug in so i can see my print updates on my phone. I'd recommend

@MissJinx I've had issues with some slicers not coping with vase mode.

Did you try changing the vase mode settings?

Some models don't work so well on vase mode. Usually with steep overhangs.

You might try a different slicer?

@CarbonAlpine Amazing model. Did you publish anywhere? I'd like to print for a full size mock up horse I made.

@Krauerking @PlasticExistence they'll have subtly different drying profiles. Silica gel had a higher capacity but will maintain a generally higher relative humidity. Check the graph here out https://www.impakcorporation.com/desiccants
Activated alumina doesn't appear to be as effective as molecular sieve at low humidity from a lit. search.

You should check for air leaks in the system first. When I lose Desiccant this is usually why.

P. S. Silica gel can be regenerated.

@KroninJ I use something like theses. https://www.halfords.ie/motoring/tools/garage-equipment/garage-essentials/rolson-4-piece-pick-and-hook-set-340885.html
Useful for the small supports and difficult to reach ones.

@WolfLink @CheeseNoodle I have and Ender 3 S1. On my old CR10 I had similar opinion to you on the bl touch. Since I upgraded the firmware on the Ender some of the new bed leveling stuff has been a handbags. I couldn't do without it now. Huge reduction in faff.

@AlexanderTheGreat it's old and cranky, but Meshmixer is still something I use.

Let's you split and combine as well as align

https://meshmixer.com/

@KiloGex you need to tune your printer for the cold. Exposure times need to be longer and rise times slower. The set reaction is slower and the resin more viscous.
I managed with my printer in similar temps. Clean up is also more difficult in lower temps. I don't have the link I used, others may suggest.

@KroninJ @joemansmoke oh and a set of files can be useful as well.
https://www.screwfix.com/p/magnusson-needle-file-set-5-1-2-6-pcs/4474v

@charmed_electron oh and proper personal protective equipment is must. I use decent mask that will remove solvents from sir.

@charmed_electron printer type and size depends on what you want. Consider the software to use on it, printers may only like some slices. I've found FDM and Resin printers to be complimentary. I'd agree with person about getting a suitable space. I use my loft, getting a place away from you main living space is needed. Temperature is an issue but settings can account for some of this.
I think of my FDM printer as mechanical tool to build things. My resin printer feels more like cooking!

@user_6282638282 I've had similar problems. It may be the coating has been removed from the bed. It happens when filament sticks too much, PETG is pretty bad for it. I tend to leave my bed to cool so the piece pops off itself. That doesnt always work. Following other advice to reduce adhesion like bed temp, offset etc may work.

@Piecemakers3Dprints @CaptainFlintlockFinn as a one time chemist I'd agree that there is a real possibility some trace materials in the resin causing some harm in prolonged contact. The resin may be set but could potentially leach some of the other materials such as unreacted ingredients, catalysts etc. In the same way that cheap jewellery can release alloying metals that cause irritation. A dermatologically safe varnish seems a sensible call.

@PeleSpirit @topinambour_rex yes, you can. With a dual extruder printer. Or if pause the printer mid way through and change the filament, is recommend using a printer with filament detect, it should move to the side so your prints don't get damaged by the hotend.