TLDR what's your experience with target building, especially with regards to durable stopping? I've included a list of ideas, that I'd like input on, and perhaps ideas for expansion.

Background I'm revisiting the idea of making a full size target. I've attempted it in the past, using foam mats, like yoga mats and foam tiles for toddlers' flooring. I ran out of material and the cost ballooned, so I tried using styrofoam for insulation as a base to glue on the rest... Results were definitely neither inconclusive nor positive.

But I'm back! In the meantime foam has just gotten even more expensive, and my archer at home needs a target for shooting an additional 500 arrows a week, for the few days we can't make it to the range.

Optimally we'd build a full sized target for 122cm faces, as my archer is shooting either 60 or 70m, depending on the mood.

Yoga mats and the like seem unlikely given the price. So I'm hunting for alternatives. And this is where I'd like to pick your brain.

I wanted to use straw, but was advised against it at the range. The common perception was that the straws are too abrasive or develope too much heat.

So here's my ideas so far, let me know what you think and if you've tried any of my ideas what your conclusions were:

• drop the idea of a full size target at home, and just shoot a bare mat at a couple of meters. I mean my archer still get 4 or 5 training sessions in each week, at full distance, so according to the coach it would be better than not training at home.
• various constructions where I fill some compartment with some loose material.
  • either in the shape of a bag, maybe made of tyvek. Maybe filled with blankets. That is what this seemed to be made of, when I examined it at the local shop https://www.hattila.com/en/cubes-and-blocks/6817-era-target-bag.html or shopping bags and other light plastic materials as suggested here https://www.wikihow.com/Make-an-Archery-Target
  • The bag filling material ideas, but in a wooden frame, with tyvek front and back. Maybe several layers of tyvek, so the filling material can be compressed.
  • Foam mattresses looks like they can be obtained for cheap used. But I don't think that the material can stop an arrow without ripping the spin wings off occasionally.
  • We have a small, 60x60cm, EVA foam mat. But it's too thin to stop the arrows. This mat could be reinforced with an a additional mat, at this size the price isn't astronomical, and placed in cutout in the center of a 120x120cm soft masonite board. I mean going below 8.5 avg per arrow is a bad end for this archer. So 9/10 of the arrows will be in the foam, and the last will be in the soft wood fiber board.
• Robbing a bank and buying an actual target /s

Edit(s): typo fixes

Two questions

1. But would you trust a repaired board?
2. What makes a triac short out like this?

In the linked picture there are two power supplies from two 400V electrical heaters. Brandname ADAX, model clea. The thermostats have been removed.

The heaters are supplied with two phases only, no third phase and no neutral.

The terminals on triac in the power supply on the right shorted out during the night, luckily the occupant of the room was awake, because this happened in a bedroom. The power supply on the left was pulled from a functioning heater for reference.

I'm fairly certain that only the resistor, triac and board have been damaged. And I'm also fairly certain that I can fix it.

The burned heater is only 1200W, but there's a lot of vias stitching the two layers together. So while it's only 3A, and the board is housed in fire resistant plastic, inside a metal and glass casing, it's also 400V and I don't know if I want to trust the solution. Even if I can get all the parts, including shipping, for a tenth the cost of a new heater.

If I decide to repair the board I'm going to be replacing the triac, R8, R9, C9, and the varistor.

Seeing as I don't see others mention this, I'm gonna try and see if I'm alone in this.

Some pictures and videos won't show for me. It's not that the files have been removed, because I can download the files, but boost won't show them. Sometimes the pictures will load fine, if I choose the original resolution.

I figured that it was because I had an elderly phone, a OnePlus running Android 13, but now that I'm on Motorola running Android 15 I guess it has other reasons.

Anybody else have this issue?

Here's an example of a video that won't load it's NSFW https://lemmynsfw.com/post/27180424 come to think of it, I guess most of the stuff that fails is NSFW

I'm looking for suggestions for video analysis software for training.

Preferably something that

• can handle multiple camera streams at once.
• can run without internet access or a subscription. (it's for a clubhouse and I don't want to send video of the kids, or other training data, online).
• doesn't require a PhD in robotics to set up.

The solution I imagine is two or more cameras filming an archer. The software shall record the training, and allow the archer to playback multiple synchronized streams simultaneously while adding tracking points and displaying data like angles, distance and speed.

I can find several different solutions. But before putting all our eggs in a single basket with the FOSS solution kinovea or utilus fairplay, I want to hear what others have tried.

Edit: IDK first interaction this post got was getting down voted, I guess that it's relevance to archery was unclear, so I edited the title to mitigate this.

I'm looking for suggestions on fowls.

We have a small flock of chickens, about 10, but we have another run with the capacity for about 20 more birds. We also have a small flock of ducks, a single muscowy lady and some indian runners. The ducks are our counter slug squad, but also provide us with some prime eggs as well.

Anyway, we're considering adding some quail as a pesticide in our ant infested greenhouse, and a few geese as lawnmowers for a very soggy part of the garden.

Besides the utility of the birds, we do expect to eat their eggs and come autumn fill up the freezer.

I think we've diversified quite a bit, but what do you think? Something that we should consider keeping as well?

Edit: removed the artifacts of my initial pre-posting edits

Question:

1. What the heck?
2. Anybody seen this before? Did you manage to solve it? And if so, how?

Situation: During the last part of the draw, a recurve bow clicks occasionally. As in it doesn't happen at every draw. When the click occurs it consistently happens immediately before the actual clicker, causing confusion for the archer, and lost spin wings.

It's not my bow, it belongs to an archer at my club.

Setup: hoyt gmx3 riser, kinetic carbon bamboom #32 limbs, beiter plunger and clicker, and a shibuya ultima arrow rest.

The bow has shot about 15k arrows in the current setup over the last 10 months. Limbs were bought second hand, and has shot considerably more.

Immediately before: The issue arose after aligning the limbs using the horizontal bolts. The bolts were supposedly tightened correctly. Ie I trust the people who did it, as they are way more experienced than me.

Attempted: So far I've tried tightening the counter bolt on the limbs weight adjustment bolt. It was plenty tight. I didn't have a lot of time, so I haven't had time to try anything else. The bow has shot about 100 arrows after my attempt, and it still happened enough to pull the wings off of 3 arrows.

Plan of action:

• I will double check the horizontal adjustment, and the bolts tightness.
• I will have a look at the limb pockets, perhaps put a bit of string wax in them.
• We will try swapping limbs. But I've seen this before and brand new limbs didn't solve it.

I have a suggestion for a rule amendment. It goes like this:

When posting pictures of your targets, post as much info about your setup as reasonably possible, ie distance, target diameter, bow type etc. If you're looking for advice, be as specific about your gear as possible.

Reason for my suggestion is that a lot of the time posters will leave out this info, but still be looking for advice, or to show off I guess, when posting a picture of their target. I mean a spread of 50cm at 18m with a compound bow isn't that impressive - not that there's any reason to discourage the archer. But was that a 15cm spread instead, at 70m, with a bare bow, then that's pretty darn impressive.

I like to give constructive feedback, but I know next to nothing about anything but recurve target archery.

Back on December 24th, I wrote the mod of this community, ![email protected], suggesting this rule ammendment. It's been two and a half week and I haven't heard back. I also noticed when writing the mod, that the account haven't posted or commented anywhere in a year. So now I'm trying the community instead. I have no idea what we need to do to actually implement the rule, so I'd thought I'd give democracy a shot in the meantime.

Question: If you have tried a dodgy dual input hotend, what were your experiences?

Background: As with anyone else who have a single extruder, I've been contemplating upgrading to something with a bit more flexibility. But the idea of getting a whole new printer doesn't appeal as much to my wallet, as it does to my mind :-)

Scouring aliexpress for weird filaments with the mrs - you know, normal Saturday-evening-and-the-kids-are-sleeping couple activities - we fell upon a dual input hotend for creality cr10. It looks an awful lot like the hotend we have, and it comes with either 24v or 12v heater. It's only about 15€ so I might just give it a try, but it's pretty stupid when I don't even have a plan for an extra extruder as well. And I don't know how I would go about wiring that part up on my cr6 at the moment.

In search of a dedicated small engine community I come here.

I have an older husqvarna frontrider with a hydrostatic transmission. While checking the transmission oil I noticed that the fan had broken of most of the blades.

Looking at the transmission cover I can see that it has been grazed by the blades, suggesting that the fan has been pulled sideways.

The oil check was part of a small service, that I was doing since I had to replace both belts going to the cutting deck as well as the belt in the deck. Those belts died when the belt tensioner, in middle of the mower, came loose and dangled beneath the mower.

My questions are these:

1. WTF?
2. If the belts have pulled that much in the engine driveshaft, as to do this, what else would you look for before starting the mower again?
3. Given that it's about 10°C outside, would you run the mower without a fully functioning fan?
4. Have I missed something? Any wisdom you wish to impart?

I'm looking for a source of product status ect. Specifically AAE products at the moment, but preferably more universal than that. Does anyone know of a blog or other source, that congregates this info?

Background (rant) for asking:

At present I'm looking for vanes for my target recurve kid. Got told by the gurus at the range/club, that flex fletch ffp 187 was a good choice, so I ordered ffp 187 no-prep. Just to get an email back from the local shop, that ffp 187 no-prep was discontinued. And they suggested AAE wav, gas pro naca 200 performance (or spin wings, but the coaches don't want us to go for spin wings at the present)

OK, fine, I can see that JVD (my local shop's wholesaler) only carries one color of ffp 187 no-prep now. But then another kid at the club was shooting AAE hybrid shield 185, and all of a sudden those are being discontinued as well. So I've tried ordering AAE wav ... to the be told by the same gurus what wav was probably also discontinued. But I can't find any announcements, just dwindling stock at the wholesaler level.

I don't know much about archery, but I know that I don't want to fletch a dozen shafts, just to then learn that once the clicker-side vanes are used up, then we're SOL.

As the title states really. I need to refer to this diverse group of people, who somehow have gotten put in the same box labeled "sexual minorites".

I'm a boring CISHET vanilla white male, so I don't really know. I want to include as many as I can when I refer to "lgbtq+ people". I've been studying various flags, trying to find the one flag I need. But I can't really figure it out.

Is lgbtq+ the preferred term, or what should I use? Is a flag better? I don't want to hurt someone by not including them.

If money wasn't an issue, what ILF riser would you get for olympic recurve?

This is both meant as a thought experiment, but also as me picking your brains as a starting point for picking a new riser for someone.

Personally I like the Wiawis integrated dampeners of the ATF-DX or Meta DX. And the insert in the ATF-DX fitting, so you don't ruin the entire riser if you're stringing it wrong, does have some appeal.

But what do you think? Any Gillo fans here? Anyone want to try convincing the rest of us that formula is a superior fitting, and that we should tie the knot with Hoyt?

I apologize for the links below being vendor specific, but the linked products are the specific products I have used. I have no affiliation with the shop other than they offer to bill my job instead of having me pay upfront and then get the expenses redeemed. (I have tried making this both subscript and super script with respectively ^ and ~, but none works on lemmy)

I seek advice on proceeding with the setup and acquiring an acceptable printing quality.

Background

I have recently "upgraded" a creality cr6 se at work. I installed a spider steel/PEI plate (https://3deksperten.dk/products/spiderflexiplate-double-system-255x245-ex-cr-6-se), a bimetal heatbreak https://3deksperten.dk/products/3dsupreme-titanium-alloy-bi-metal-heatbreak-cr6-se) and a hardened steel nozzle (0.4mm from this kit https://3deksperten.dk/products/creality-3d-3d-printing-up-market-nozzle-kit-8-pcs)

Findings

Testing this new setup I used the PLA spool I had been printing with days before without issue. The new and old nozzles are all 0.4mm.

What I discovered was that I couldn't get any adhesion to the built plate, some spray glue (this exact make and model https://3deksperten.dk/products/printafix-100ml) fixed that. Then layer adhesion was an issue. So I upped the temp to the max for this PLA and increased the extrusion rate. First 10 layers or so were somewhat ok, but the rest delaminated instantly.

I then opened a brand new spool of PLA, thinking that the old spool had moisture issues. Cranked the temp to max, 210°C, added 5°C to the bed and applied a strong shot of spray glue. This time the print actually got done, but the parts where Cura's tree support was supposed to be supporting, the layers seem to come apart. The rest of the print was somewhat ok, though not great.

Current considerations

• Maybe I attempted too much at the same time. I may try swapping the nozzle back and only deal with the plate and heatbreak.
• The heat break may be install wrong. The nozzle was screwed in all the way, loosened a few turns, then the heat break was screwed in all the way. The nozzled was then tightened. No heating was done. I may try giving the heat break a few turns before installing the old nozzle again.
• Should I have heated hotend before tightening the nozzle?

Simply put, our slate countertops are uneven, creating issues in daily activities. I've considered using an angle grinder with a grinding disc, but I'm hesitant. Seeking advice on practical solutions for making installed slate slabs even.

The slabs in question varies in thickness by at least ±6mm, in some spots the extremes are within 80mm of each other.