Spyke

Library of Cups

Here is part of my cup collection fondly referred to as a ‘library of cups’. There is a real similarity between reading a book and drinking from a cup. They contain, nourishment (intellectual and physical), and with both, I form a relationship through experience over time. This library of cups challenges me again and again to investigate what I actually understand as ‘cup’ and where I find and experience beauty.

I have added very brief personal reflections or observations of each cup. This text is to aid with education about pottery as a form for expression and to help elevate the discourse in contemporary craft. Often it is difficult to read contemporary ideas in such an old art form and hopefully this site will bring the viewer new insight about these objects, 100 cups, 100 ideas.

Library of Cupshttps://www.gallowayslibraryofcups.com/Open linkView original on crazypeople.online
11

Mason stain test tiles

These are test tiles of the stamped % weight of the mix described by the code. So for example, the top left is 100% the R(cone)61043 clay, and the top right is 50% by weight the R(cone)61043 clay, and the other 50% is the unstained stoneware.

These were fired to a hot cone 5, according to my witness cones. Oxidation atmosphere, default Skutt cone 5 program, with a 15 minute hold to attempt to hit cone 6. The cone 6 program over fires, but I adjusted too far. I'll go for 25 mins next time.

Glazes are a spectrum transparent (don't remember the code) and 2 and 3 layers of Amaco Celadon Aqua (C-40).

Here they are as greenware. The 60-100% were a different colour at some point!

Here they are saturated with water after a cone 06 bisque:

And here is the glaze application:

I don't think I've quite taken in all the information in these photos,but I look forward to taking another look at the tiles in natural light and seeing how the celadon enhances the colour of the clay.

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9

I love how different the same glaze can look in different applications

I have a pint of PSH snOFLECKS. I bought it because I thought it was the equivalent of a studio glaze I used a lot (Their version of Albany Slip Brown) and I thought it would be good 'basic' as I started building my collection.

I made this mug and I hate it lol. Not only is it super dense and obliterated the detail (not shown), the mechanism for the dark brown deposits is so different than Albany (discrete particles vs a more flowing variegation). Some of that is probably my kiln getting too hot too fast (still playing around with programs) and application plays a part, but I do think I need to accept it's not the same.

(Test tile because I am a nerd. 1, 2 and 3 coats as indicated)

I came across the pot on the right on social media yesterday and I love it. Not because it's closer to Albany, but because I think the concentration and relative size of the flecks are more harmonious with a pot of that size vs my small mug.

Pottery is so freaking interesting.

Eta: technical details on Amaco Albany Slip Brown vs "true" slip brown if you wanna go down this rabbit hole with me

https://digitalfire.com/picture/3334

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59
pottery·Potterybyperegrin5

200 Cylinder Challenge -- The App

A year ago I shared the 200 Cylinder Challenge post here in this same community:

https://piefed.social/post/1088069

I'm back because I decided to turn this into an app! It's open source, free, and self-hostable, and allows potters to log their progress in the challege (or a challenge of their own making) with adding photos, logging stages, adding notes, etc. Tbh, its general enough that you may be able to just use it as a general pottery journal. Anyway check it out.

Live Demo : https://mosswild.github.io/centrd/ -- This is a demo page. All data you enter here will be stored with your local browser data. I wouldn't recommend just using it instead of self-hosting it since any re-deployments or clearing of browser data may cause you to lose everything unless you are just constantly backing it up.

Key Features

Throw & Weight Tracking: Log piece weights (lbs or kg), dates thrown, and quality status (Successful, Flawed, or Collapsed). Set custom weight goals such as 100 1-lb cylinders or 50 2-lb cylinders.
Stage Photo Gallery & Lightbox : Attach photos at every stage of the pottery workflow (Wet Clay, Trimmed, Glaze Application, Fired). Includes a full-screen lightbox viewer and the ability to reassign photo stages.
Organic Sticky Notes : Attach color-coded post-it notes to any stage of your throw to log glaze recipes, cone temperatures, wall thickness observations, or trimming reminders.
Potter Profiles : Personalize your potter avatar, studio name, and manage multiple profiles if you have multiple potters in your house or its being hosted at a studio.
Data Ownership & ZIP Exports : Your data stays yours. Export your complete log as a ZIP archive (including full-resolution photos and notes) anytime. If you extract the zip file it has a Markdown version of the log with all your images embedded. You can also import a backup Zip into the app to continue where you left off if for some reason you lose your data.
Share Challenges : You can export your app configurations as a JSON and share it with your potter friends so you can all work towards the same challenges together
Light & Dark Mode : A responsive interface designed to work on desktop, tablet, or phone right at the studio wheel.
Free, Open-Source, and Self-Hostable : I made this just for fun for myself and am sharing it so anyone can self host it for free on their home-servers.

GitHub Repository : https://github.com/mosswild/centrd The repo has instructions on how to self-host it locally.

I would love to hear your feedback, thoughts, or ideas for new features that would be helpful in your workflow.

https://mosswild.github.io/centrd/Open linkView original on piefed.social
5

An absolute horseshite bud vase, but an excellent lesson

I made this small bud vase because I thought it would be easy and useful. Wrong on both counts lol.

I was practicing pinch pots and closed forms, and tested out some glaze combos. I learned a lot about geometry and balance, but from a practical point of view. Rest assured my artistic technique is still quite lacking.

The placement of the openings not only spread the stems out too far, but they are also pointing at a curved surface, which means the buds cannot stand upright. They all splay in opposite directions.

I fixed it with a bit of twist tie forming a ring around the stems.

Flowers are nice though. Zinnia and snap dragons grown from seed, plus some wild daisies.

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24

About to get weird about celadon

So far I've managed to be easy breezy about pottery but I feel like I'm at risk of getting very weird about learning and adapting Goryeo and Diyao pottery techniques to the materials and equipment available to me.

Can anyone recommend some good resources? I am not having a lot of luck finding instructional content. While I enjoy learning about the history and cultural significance of the work, I want to watch people make it, ideally with commentary. Books would be wonderful too.

I enjoyed this video but not finding a lot out there: https://youtu.be/R1T4K3yaJg0

I should probably also watch out for visiting artists workshops or anyone practicing somewhat close.

I think I have a decent handle on slip inlay but the raised carvings (especially the clouds) illude me.

I picked up some mason stain and a commercial celedon glaze this weekend. I think it would be fun to make some test tiles using the stain to colour my normal clay (white/stone) clay body and inlay with unstained slip. The stain is an azure blue so it won't look anything like traditional celedon but I'm also using the "wrong" clay and I'm firing in an electric kiln so it's not like I'll ever get it to match 😅

As a more general question, where do the other nerds go to get good at a specific style? Do people tend to stick with what teachers and techniques are practiced in your schools?

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10

A few recent pottery gifts (painters set, partial sushi serving set)

I have some family visiting this weekend, and I wanted to take the opportunity to send them home with things rather than risking mailing items to them.

The first is a set for a relative who has recently gotten into painting. I am so happy for her and want to show my support. I made a palette in the style that seems to be popular these days, even if it seems impractical to me 😅.

Next time I will try the more traditional shallow wells, but a few test pieces in that style felt wrong and I ended up recycling them.

I'm realizing it's really foolish to put off getting some powdered glazes for items like this. It's clearly not food safe but that's okay lol.

I also made a cup for water with divots to rest a brush on. I like the way the design turned out. I was going for Mediterranean blue and white country pottery vibes with the set.

The next set is extremely disjointed but it was an attempt at a partial sushi serving set for another relative who has started making sushi at home. I wanted to include plates but I greatly over estimated my capacity. I will try and get them done before the next visitor comes in two months. Even that might be a stretch lol.

The set includes:

  • two tea cups (I made another matching set of two but they are HIDEOUS)
  • what was supposed to be 4 soy sauce bowls but that I didn't give enough of a depression to, so they can hold wasabi or ginger lol
  • set of four totally off theme but cute chop stick rests.

My main lesson learned is that I would like to do some test tiles to refine the glazing technique on the tea cups. The underglaze I used is extremely opaque, but when I mixed it with a white of a different brand to lighten it a bit the brush strokes were more visible (and chaotic) than I wanted.

Clays are all tuckers cone 6 stone ware, a mix of mid white (grogged) for the palette and sushi accessories and either straight up mid smooth stone speckled or whatever my recycle is rn (a mix of all their mid smooth white/stone clays lol).

Underglazes are kiwi and spectrum, and the glaze is spectrum zinc free and mid fire white. Underglaze was applied to greenware.

Bisqued at a slow cone 06 and glazed at medium cone 6, but witness cones show it exceeding cone 6.

(L to R: 7, 6, 5)

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21

Jamming all sorts of experiments into one piece

This isn't quite the plant I envisioned for this pot but it needed a home lol

Hand built with groggy white stoneware, and lots of different glazes layered. I love the crazing at the midway point.

I am also experimenting with stoneware for plant pots. This clay is advertised as 1.5% adsorption at cone 6. I'm way too lazy to test so I'll just try planting in it! My houseplants are almost exclusively in terracotta planters. I've got some cone 06 earthenware with 8% adsorption but I don't have many low fire glazes and I'm trying to avoid becoming a hoarder.

I did totally forget to build a tray for it. Previously I thought I might build one in but also lol forgot.

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27

Some cone 6 test tiles/cup

Glazes are all from spectrum and are brushed.

Clockwise from top left:

  • 2x running hot chowder on whole height, 1 layer black on top 2/3, 1 layer 1107 black on top 1/3
  • 2x running hot chowder on whole height, 1 layer Nori on top 2/3, 1 layer Nori on top 1/3
  • 1 layer 1107 black on all, 1 layer Nori on top 2/3, 1 layer Nori on top 1/3
  • 3 layers Nori lol

  • 5 thin layers gold (1112)
  • 3 layers lagoon (1180)
  • 3 layers storm cloud (1532)
  • 3 layers satin black (maybe, I'm honestly can't remember but looks right?
  • 3 layers greenstone (1159)

Underglaze, numbers are in the tile lol. Left side is on bare clay, right side is on white. Columns labeled for coats

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25

First earthenware kiln unload

I have never used earthenware in a studio setting but my spouse wanted to try it out.

It's cone 06-02 low fire earthenware that was bisqued to cone 04 (whoops) and the glaze fired at cone 06, in a kiln that was also used to bisque stoneware. I put it on the top shelf, furthest away from the down draft vent.

I only did three pieces, just to try it out. The first is a thrown and altered vessel meant more as an art piece than functional.

The idea is that it's technically food safe (still need to test for adsorption and shock) but really awkward to hold and will eventually grow mold on the outside if the outside is allowed to get wet/dirty.

The other two were two small hand building things just to get a sense of what it's like to work with the clay. The first is a ring dish vaguely inspired by the egg pods from Alien.

I used red underglaze and did some slip trailing with slip mixed with underglaze as well.

The next was a tiny box. It's not very good, but helped me understand that I need grog/patience if I want to hand build with this stuff! I used red and black underglaze - the only two I had at the time.

I look forward to messing around with it more and working with it's relatively high adsorption (8% at cone 4) for succulent planters.

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28

Throwing closed form lidded vessels

Just sharing what I've been working on, but open to others sharing their own learning experiences more than just tips especially if this isn't something you have tried yourself.

I've been wanting to throw some closed form lidded vessels ever since I saw another student in one of my classes make some really beautiful pieces. (It's an advanced beginner class so very mixed skill level!)

I threw this one with a large flange which I thought would be good for keeping a better seal, but it was honestly kinda shit (I trimmed SO MUCH) and it cracked so I'm not going to fire it. It only cracked after the underglaze too, of course...I had been drying it super slowly for weeks but that was just too wet apparently 🫠

I had a lot of trouble with that peice - and with most of my cylinders, honestly - where I end up eating up the base ro build the walls. I haven't figured out the limits of the clay yet in terms of what size I should be getting from what weight. It doesn't help that I use a grogless clay and am probably trying to get the walls way too thin to support the structure.

The massive thick walls you see above are a weird symptom of that. When I was pulling the top it barely met to crate a closed form and I kept manipulating it to try and flatten it out but that pushed the clay back down. Wack

Anyways, I tried to throw another one yesterday and make sure I kept it wider. The same weird thing was happening even before I got it closed. The walls just kept getting thick, but probably from over compression because I was so paranoid about the walls collapsing. I ended up giving up on closing it on the wheel and used hand building techniques to add a top and close it.

The walls were still too thin and it was collapsing but I fucked around with it on the banding wheel until I got something...okay. it's honestly very fun to manipulate the clay once you get a good seal. I added a knob.

I let it dry under plastic over night and then cut it open. Unlike the previous pot I didn't thin out a section to make a flange. I was inspired by the work of hand builder Marrisa Y Alexander, specially forms like this one.

Now I've got it in a damp box and I'll slowly start losening the lid over a few days until it's hard enough to trim without being too goopy.

I can throw pots with galleries and matching lids, but this is a very fun technique. I hope to figure out my issue with the walls and throw some bigger pots that are closed without having to add a slab and add that additional opportunity for cracking/splitting.

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15
pottery | Spyke