cross-posted from: https://lemmy.ml/post/43120463

TLDR (I’m very long-winded): this YT video took measurements of three different audio cables, including a 200€ one, and found differences where there should be none. My physics knowledge (and general consensus among the scientific community) says the measurements of the different cables should be identical or near-identical — or I am, at least, under that impression. My own measurements, because the channel does provide the files, confirm that the expensive 200€ cable does measure differently from the others. But surely something else must be causing this? Please help me find out what that is, Lemmy!

Below, I go into a little more detail and context, and I go through what I have tried, etc.; I tried splitting everything up into chunks to make it easier to read, but I was never good at being succinct. Sorry about that 😬 :P

Context: What Am I Talking About?

Firstly, I should clarify that this isn’t relevant to most people, only really physics and audio-technology nerds. But I’m desperate. This question has been tormenting me for days...

I should provide some context. For some reason, YouTube gave me a rather odd video suggestion. I am very interested in audio technology, mixing, and mastering, but I’m not a snake-oil audiophile type. I guess you could call me a lover-of-audio, e.g., audiophile, but I don’t attach myself to that community. So you can imagine my confusion when this video was suggested to me on YouTube.

For anyone unwilling to click on an ambiguous YT link like that, here is a brief description: audiophile guy (who believes that cables affect sound) compares three cables, two of which are "cheap" (e.g., approx. 50€) and one of which is expensive (like 200€ — for a cable). His conclusion is ultimately (yes, I watched that far) that they don’t really affect sound, because they’re just interconnects (so RCA cables), and not speaker or power cables. But he actually records each cable and provides those music files — which means I can compare them as well...

By "records each cable," I mean that he used each cable to connect a CD-player to a pre-amp (for some reason) and then an analogue-to-digital convert (ADC) into his computer, where he can record the output; this way he gets just the supposed difference the cables make. I realize that the CD-player might have some inconsistencies, since CDs are a moving medium, but jitter compensation and stuff like that is very advanced these days, so this is getting pretty close to an accurate measurement of the cables, I think (correct me if I’m wrong!).

In the video, this guys claims that the measurements show a difference between the cables. This debate around cables is something I thought was quite contested, so I naturally decided to download the tracks (which he provides in the description) and compare them myself. Here’s what happened.

My Own Testing: They Don’t Null

So I downloaded his recordings, phase-aligned (which they weren’t already) everything and normalized to peak (which, again, was necessary, and creates the lowest delta compared to LUFS, etc.), and then null-tested. That means I inverted the phase of one, played two of the files at the same time, and thus got the delta between them.

The Mogami and Belden cables (the cheap ones) are nearly identical; there is a slight difference in the null-test, but it is statistically small enough, that I attribute it to measurement inconsistency (e.g., CD-player, DAC, or ADC performance, but also maybe natural conditions, etc.). I especially suspect — given that most differences occur at higher frequencies but aren’t really audible when listening — a jitter related issue, causing the timing to be just a little off, thus creating a delta in the higher frequencies. This could be due to the CD-player, but I have no idea.

...the Neotech (the expensive one), however, is significantly different.

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Firstly, he provides the file for the Neotech cable with a significant phase delay compared to the others, of about 50 ms, and it is also about 0.02 db louder than the others. This alone makes it sound better, but when I correct this volume and phase difference — it still sounds better, and the null-test confirms that it is still quite different (we're talking differences up to -40 db here, which should definitely be audible).

It turns out, the volume difference actually changes throughout the song; meaning that in some places the difference is 0.01 db, and in others 0.03 db. But I can correct for that! I don’t know why it happens (someone smarter than me, please explain), but I can correct for it... And yet, the null test still shows a clear difference (especially when the singer makes s-sounds, i.e., sibilance).

Please Help Me

What is going on? My physics knowledge tells me this should be impossible. I can only imagine that for some reason the Neotech is more conductive, or something like that, and therefore recreates the harsh and very fast dynamics of sibilance more accurately. But the difference in conductivity should not be enough to cause that... I really am confused. Someone with more expertise please explain this!

For context, I cannot blind test ABX the Neotech. This is very subtle stuff here. But the null test shows differences as high as -45 db when the singer does those s-sounds and everything has been normalized. So clearly something is happening (and again, this is phase aligned and normalized and everything). So what could it possibly be?

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Lemmy, please show me what I have missed! Show me the obvious error I or the video creator made. Sorry to make such a long post on c/asklemmy, but I don’t know where else to ask.

I've had the Bose QC Ultra for a year, and I finally got myself a Creative BT-W6, and I use Qobuz; oh, how much better the quality is! I feel like the music I listen to is brand new, and is giving me an orgasm in the ear... Seriously, I have no idea how I lived with the shitty quality!

It shows your most played tracks, artists, and listening habits from the past year, along with a personalized Playback playlist.

This guide explains how to find your SoundCloud Wrapped on mobile or web, what stats are included, and how to save the Playback playlist for offline listening if you want to keep a copy of your yearly music recap.

cross-posted from: https://lemmy.world/post/28902620

Hullo! I need some help with my home-theater/music-listening setup:

• I'm NOT an audiophile and very limited knowledge of audio, but I would like to find the best compromise with the hardware I'm dealing with
• speakers: old 2× TSM Puris 400
• video devices: Apple TV 4K + EPSON projector (wall mounted, away from amp and speakers)
• current amp: old Technics SU-X70 (I also use a Technics turntable attached to it)
• current streaming solution: Eve Play as AirPlay 2 receiver for Apple TV

Now, the Eve Play has proven unreliable and the company customer service is terrible. It is also very limited, but I can return it for full refund. I am looking at the following alternatives:

1. Replace the Eve Play with a Wiim Pro or Pro Plus, while keeping the Technics amp
2. Replace both the Eve Play and the amp with a Wiim Amp (not Amp Pro as it lacks AirPlay)
3. Replace my whole audio system with 2× HomePods (pls don't insult me!) or other AirPlay capable speakers (I would give away turntable compatibility this way)

I cannot run cables from my projector to the location of the amp/speakers, so please understand my constraint of having to use AirPlay 2.

Summing up, I'd like to know if:

• an old amp is still perfectly viable or a Wiim Amp could give any improvements?
• anyone has experience with a Wiim Pro or Pro Plus, for both music and movies?
• I think it's worth keeping the speakers: any downsides that I don't know of? I read that speakers don't really get old
• do you have any other suggestions?

Thank you in advance for any tips!

Hi there!

I'm looking to replace my Edifier R1800BT with some higher end alternative.

What would you recommend?

Thanks!

Im so happy with it! Even if I had do drive 1.300km for the JBL Speaker. The price was too good to let the pass by.

The turntable is an PLX500. Not the best one, but I dont listen to vinyl a lot. So it gets the Job done.

The only thing that buffles me, but not a huge deal, is when I listen via Tidal connect, the ammeter is mostly completely maxed out, even if the activity is low. But thats bearable.

In this review of the Audiolab 8000CDM CD transport, which produces only a digital signal from the digital data on a CD, the guy compares it to other transports and says:

High end Japanese designs such as the Esoteric P30 – admittedly three or four times the £850 price of the Audiolab – had a slightly more powerful bass and a whisker more detail and depth

sremoved**

I stopped reading at that point :-)

Sorry to post him again, but he just uploaded this video, and I am sincerely concerned now. He needs to touch grass in a major way. He needs to go to a party where nobody cares about the quality of the music playing. Because if he doesn't, some dark shit might happen.

Here in the Colonies/North America/USA there is the Craigslist for locals, the Reverb/eBay (but the shipping of gear for Reverb & eBay is painful), the local ham radio swap meets/ham fests (shout out to https://www.electronicsfleamarket.com/ (AKA eFlea or EFM friends), but I have not had much success. Yes, I have been able to pass some nice speakers off to new homes but there is other gear that needs to move on.

Thoughts/recommendations appreciated - TIA!

I have been considering buying an IEM that would be a step up from my older BLON BL03 and QKZ x HBB.

So far I have narrowed down to these 3 -

1. Truthear x Crinacle Zero (red)
2. Simgot EW200
3. 7hz Sonus

I found one more IEM - KZ PR-2 or PR-3

I mostly listen to Rock, metal, jazz, blues and some occasional cinematic soundtracks (like Hans Zimmer). I also want to use the IEM to play games like Apex Legends.

I want it to last for sometime (if possible) unlike my blon - the shells come off every now and then and its annoying.

If there are any other IEMs I should consider please let me know. I just want the best value for money IEM that sounds good

What Android App do you use to play your music?

I've been using VinylMusicPlayer because it has all the features I need (supports ReplayGain and playlists auto update when they are modified externally)

But I would much rather use MetroMusicPlayer as it looks so much prettier. But I'd have to manually update all playlists and it does not support ReplayGain

I should probably mention that I have limited myself to open source applications and that I don't particularly like the look of the main recommendations unfortunately.

Who makes a good RCA cable that I can use to connect my subwoofer? I wanna go one output from the receiver to two inputs on the woofer. I'd like to not break the bank or overpay for ridiculous brand names if possible. I just can't tell on Amazon anymore what kind of quality I'm getting from China basically.

I work for an electronics recycler and test equipment that comes through to see if its upcycle worthy. I'm a general electronics nerd but don't know much about audio equipment. I ran across these a few months ago and love them. But I tried looking for some for myself and realized I don't know what they actually called.

Looking for headphones for use at my computer. Primarily for gaming but also music. Lots of people online recommend the Sennheiser HD 560s but I figured I'd ask to see if there's anything else worth looking at. I think I want open backs since I'll primarily use them at my desk by myself.

My criteria are: -Decent price (around $200 or less) -Option for microphone attachment (also looking for recommendations there)

If I were to go with the HD560s, would I need an amp to take full advantage of them? If so, I would also like recommendations for that too, as I don't really know anything about them. Any other advice you could give me would be very beneficial. I'm new to the audiophile scene and don't have a ton to spend on the best of the best in gear. Thanks!

Just discovered this app. I love that it allows me to default to LDAC 16/44/quality settings without having to manually fiddle with developer options every time I connect headphones, earbuds, and speakers. I can also toggle between LDAC 16/44/quality and LDAC/16/44/adaptive settings with one click through saved profiles. Paid $4.13 for the premium app. Well worth it for audiophiles who use LDAC.