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8 replies

lemmy.curiana.net

Unpopular opinion: it depends.

I know many people that are absolutely obsessed with Moonboards and train pretty much exclusively on one.

Many people like gyms with set routes.

I like spray walls. I find Moonboard too repetitive and limited. Many set problems are of the "new style" type which has little to do with bouldering outside. I prefer to set my own problems and so a big, nice sprayway is my favorite.

And I do mostly specific training so a pullup bar and campus board is what I use the most anyway.

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slrpnk.net

I think this is not really an unpopular opinion, I like to visit gyms with widely different styles. At the moment one that is focused on training for outdoor sport climbing and therefore more board-climbing style. The other one I frequently visit is more comp style.

Board climbing (including Spraywall) is a very good training for both and "setting" your own routes is good for creativity. Climbimg routes set by others is good for leaving your comfort zone and beta reading.

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ExLisperreply
lemmy.curiana.net

Yeah, I guess not that unpopular :) But it would be hard for me to say which one is the best. Depends what I'm focusing on at given time.

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feddit.org

hangarbrno.cz - playground of Adam Ondra, 2 halls, boulder setting every week, every month 30 new boulder set into Challenge, good coffee, nice toalets, vibing through whole day, ...

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slrpnk.net

That looks nice! Already thinking about visiting. Is ondra training there, is it a comp style gym?

1

I guess it's comp style. I saw Adam there, once in 6 months. But I visit the gym 3 times a month.

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What is the best boulder gym (that you personally know)? | Spyke