I'm new to bouldering, I started 3.5 months ago and love it. I was wondering what kind of training routines you all recommend for advancing? When do you decide to move on to more difficult problems? Any personal words of wisdom?
Mostly posting for content.
I thought I should post this to help save some people some time and frustration when trying to find some shoes.
My street shoe size is 10 1/2 wide with my left foot being roughly half a size smaller and the middle of my foot is pretty high volume. My single biggest problem is always being able to use heel hooks as there is typically this gap of about a 1/4 to 1/2 ish inch gap at the bottom of the heel. I prefer some knuckling in my toes and size for my smaller foot.
I boulder pretty much exclusively, live in Colorado.
With that out of the way my new current daily driver is the Tenaya Indalo (8.5) the Tenaya Iati (8.5) was a very close second. The indalo is slightly wider overall. Other shoes I have tried that have felt like they would work were the Ocun Ozone HV (10) and Ocun Bullet (10). The Scarpa Instinct VSR (9.5) also felt very good but was sized half a size too small I think as I couldn't bend my foot at all.
I tried multiple different shoes and vendors recently and found most shoes too narrow in the midsole area to downsize enough. This includes Mad Rock, Red Chili, La Sportiva.
Can you share your gym recommendations? Please include where the gym is and why you would recommend it.
Bouldering-focus. Good size, good settings, not usually overcrowded.
Bouldering-focus. Small, good settings, very cozy and friendly.
Mix between sport climbing and bouldering, probably leaning more towards sport climbing. Huge - biggest climbing gym in Europe. Usually crowded during peak hours, but opens early and closes late so you can easily avoid them. Great settings, good variety. Other activities in the same place - yoga, fitness, etc.
