Trying to figure out plans for this bed frame
It is time i finally get a bed frame, my wife and i both like this one. It looks like something i can build myself.
I would love to try building this with as few nails/screws as possible. It is for a King Sized bed.
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That's the two killer 3000 model. It's pocket screws holding together a box. The plywood across the back of each box gives it stiffness.
I would strongly suggest throwing some 2x4's under it, and a few inches back. Just to get that bottom edge above toe height. Anything you're likely to walk right up to should have toe clearance. Especially if you might do that in the dark, like a bed.
Any more info on this? A quick web search just returns cars
I think it was a joke that got typo'd. "Toe-Killer 3000"
Oh. Heh. Bummer, I've actually been hunting for a really similar bed frame for ages.
Three Ikea Kallax and you're golden xD
I dunno. I trust MDF/particle board in compression, but not in suspension or tension. The horizontal bits may not be strong enough, and the backer would really need to be plywood to handle racking forces... which then relies on fasteners into more MDF. It also depends on the weight and (ahem) mileage the bed is going to see.
Kallax is not even mdf 😂 its build like a hollow core door, with carton inside. That said, jump on one in the store, they are surprisingly sturdy
https://thinklightweight.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/10/Hollow-Core-Wood-Products-Think-Lightweight-Foam-Light-Wood-Products-Office-Furniture-Manufacturer-Trade-Show-Booth-Setup-Furniture-Sliding-Door-Workplace-scaled.jpg
I totally get it, but the moment OP decides to get adventurous by attempting to solve the three-body problem on bed made with that, they might get more adventure than they bargained for. Plus, people flop onto and jump on beds all the time, to say nothing of kids. Lastly, some people are just big, making for a situation that can exceed 500 lbs of dead weight (if you're not alone) that isn't evenly distributed. Personally, I wouldn't want the constant distraction of a potential structural failure (however remote) and would overbuild with solid materials just to be safe.
Yeah, it drives me nuts how many of my typos happen to be words, so autocorrect never helps.
I never thought about the toe killer potential of floor-flush furniture.
But won't a 2x4 place it at an awkward height where it's tall enough to accumulate heaps of dust, but not tall enough to easily clean underneath? I have a sofa like that, and hate cleaning under it
Use the same spacing as your kitchen cabinets. Easy enough to clean but still aesthetic.
On it's side a 2x4 is 3.5", and my robovac is 3.25 inches tall.
A 2x4 just involves the least cutting to make the part. One flush with the inside edge, one 4 inches back from the outside edge.
Otherwise a 5" tall band of 3/4" plywood can be strong enough foot, and allow almost all Roomba's to fit under it. Use three ribs to support it from inside to outside edge, save cuts by making the inside portion from the backing sheet of the boxes.
Once you raise it up, get 2 6 foot strands of LEDs with a motion sensor trigger and stick the LEDs facing the floor on either side and the sensor facing outwards. No you have an automated nightlight that won't wake you partner. Trust me it's amazing.
Yeah, but I went with the ghetto version and threw a a toilet bowl light under each side of the bed.
I bought a cheap articulated bedframe that came with "running lights" underneath, similar to this. At first I was skeptical. In practice, having a nightlight that illuminates just the bed's edge is unobtrusive and (surprisingly) exactly where you want light to avoid bashing toes and shins in the dark. Also, it only amounts to something like eight decent wattage warm LEDs; it's not even a whole strip. It doesn't take much.
yeah I like the look of the full length being lit up. Makes me feel like I'm doing something right with my life
How you gonna stop the mattress from sliding off of there when you get to fucking?
That shouldn't be a problem since he doesn't want to screw or nail...😜
I guess that means our ace won't want to nut either.
If you're desperate enough to go to Ace hardware there are other issues...
Serious answer to an unserious question, but you could drop the bed slats by 10-15mm to “tuck” the mattress into the frame and stop it from sliding around during rigorous nighttime activities.
IMO, this would look better too. Maybe as much as 50mm, but no further. Otherwise it might be tough to get the fitted sheet on/off.
You don't want this OP. Look up mold under closed bed frames. You will sweat. That sweat will wicker through the mattress, that sweat will get trapped under the mattress, that sweat will then fester and mold.
If you do something similar to this, make sure there are air holes and good airflow in the bookcases.
This all depends on exactly where you live. For example where I live mold is almost a non-issue unless you're actually in a bathroom or someplace like that.
It is not closed, the head is open, and I live in a very arid climate.
I'm just saying you need more airflow than you realize, even in arid climates. Without airflow relative humidity doesn't mean much, your undercarriage will still get high local humidity.
3 cabinets, put bed base (Bettrost?) on top? Use glue if you don't want screws. Or don't.
Btw, you should make sure you can still vacuum in there.
Three identical cabinets, the length of which added to the depth is equal to the length of the mattress.
If you don't want to carve out a rabbet, make the back of each 3/4" short, so you have a space to drop the stretcher boards.
If you don't want to use screws, dovetail the carcasses and dado the dividers.
As few screws as possible?