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3dprinting·3DPrintingbyJtskywalker

Gyroid infil appreciation post

I've been using gyroid infil almost exclusively since I first tried it.

I was using cubic before, which was fine, but gyroid seems much sturdier for the same % infil even if it does take a bit more print time.

Also it looks awesome.

View original on lemm.ee

I can hear the noise my printer makes in my head just looking at this picture

wooo wabble waddle waddle wooo

29

Hehe yeah. So awesome! Its freaking therapy for my brain

5

until you start going fast then it sounds like it's just gonna break half the damn timw

3

It's Prusa's favourite for a reason. I like the look a lot so that combined with it being strong and non-crossing is why I use it.

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lemmy.blahaj.zone

I just wish it didn’t take so much longer to print than adaptive cubic at the same infill percent.

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Yes, adaptive cubic varies the density of the cubic structure to decrease filament usage while supposedly maintaining the same strength as normal cubic. And, in my own experience, gyroid always takes longer to print than adaptive cubic – sometimes it only adds a few minutes, but I’ve seen it add nearly half of the print time again for infill-heavy prints.

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lemm.ee

Same. Sometimes you want something fast. For things that don't need to be sturdy at all (little display figures and stuff like that) I'll use cubic or even lightning infil

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There's a type of cubic that starts out lower and increases in density as it reaches the top to support the top layers. That's mainly the one I was thinking of. I can't remember the name of it though. And lightning is suuuper fast but provides basically no strength

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lemmy.world

That’s all I use similar strength in every direction low material use and ease of print (it’s waves but no sharp corners so easy on the printer’s acceleration.

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lemm.ee

Yeah I do like that it doesn't jerk the printer, just a little wiggle!

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lemmy.world

same journey for me, cubic then gyroid.

I love the way it looks so much I made some coasters using gyroid infill with no top layers, and filled it with resin. such a cool pattern

I even made a vent cover with it since it lets air through still and looks cool

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lemm.ee

That's a cool idea for the coaster! I might do that if I ever get into pouring resin

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4lanreply
lemmy.world

Thanks! It's fun to mix both skills into one project.

Here is how they turned out

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lemm.ee

I thought so but I've only ever used it on taller TPU prints where I want them to basically be hollow so I've never seen it look quite like that!

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fairly high infil percentage if I remember correctly. I did 20% first and it was very sparse

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lemmy.world

I like it, but sometimes I have to use something like concentric for thinner pieces. But in general, it is pretty neat.

5

I haven't had a use case where something is too thin for gyroid yet. I can definitely see that being useful though!

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lemmy.world

Did you probably happen to compare it to 3d honeycomb? Quite pleased with that meself.

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lemm.ee

I haven't tried that one yet. I don't see that one in Cura - is that in prusa slicer?

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FuglyDuckreply
lemmy.world

The only advantage 3d honeycomb has is speed.

3dh Is directional, has stress points, and has less fluid transitions between changing layers.

Unless you’re absolutely in a hurry, it’s easily the best infill.

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feddit.nl

That is literally its biggest disandadvantage lol.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=upELI0HmzHc&t=417

3D honeycomb is insanely slow. It takes like double or triple the time and is super stressful on the printer because of very high accelerations.

Pretty much its only use of honeycomb seems to be making the absolute strongest prints in compression strength. 3D honeycomb is slightly better, but it is essentially the master of none. Line and rectilinear have the best surface, cubic and gyroid have the best transverse strength. Triangle has as good of compression strength and transverse strength as honeycomb and better than 3D honeycomb while taking a fraction of the time to print.

Honeycomb is probably one of the worst "popular" infills.

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nom.mom

I have to find something to print with that - I don't usually do the slicing, but I'm totally going to use gyroid infill whenever I can. Probably as a feature - like someone else said, make coasters without the top or bottom layer, and use it decoratively. Awesome!

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lemmy.world

I switched my petg to gyroid after having a hard time with cubic. It works nicely.

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lemm.ee

This is PETG also - it makes for super sturdy prints.

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FuglyDuckreply
lemmy.world

Increase the extrusion width on the infil as well- it’ll print the same amount of material, butb juice the strength phenomenally. 150% of default (which is usually at or near nozzle width,) for appearance parts. 200% for strength

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lemm.ee

That's a good tip - I haven't tried that yet. I'll give it a shot next time I need something sturdy

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